Remove seized track rod end

Warm it up and it will come off.

Unlikely. It'll be the thread in the track rod that seized rather than the locking nut.

an extension to my original "Fork balljoint separator made a

Would moving/using a nut splitter along the lenth of the track rod not free it up? Al

Maybe, but the nut splitter will have a job splitting a track rod end. Get it hot, plumbers blow torch or an OxyMapp kit works lovely on something that size.

================================== I've always found that it's the locknut which causes problems. A nut splitter would remove it but then you have to source a new nut so it's not recommended. I have an old 'King Dick' adjustable spanner with very wide jaws which has never failed with whatever length of bar I can get on the end in limited space. Heat and brute force is the answer.

Cic.

Perhaps I should have added, one of the Kwik Fit guys was wielding a very impressive looking torch of forms (came with a man sized gas bottle whatever it was). While the other two worked the nut or track rod end. I think the only one not to come away with an injury, was the gas man.

Might just take this one to Kwik Fit, they seem a little more reasonable than my local garages when it comes to just charging for the job they are doing.

Regards,

Tim

My guess is I wouldn't be able to use too much force on the track rod. The rod that appears to go into the steering joint looks a little delicate and wouldn't me hanging off it. Not quite drive shaft material.

Regards,

Tim

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More heat then. If the locknut hasn't started moving you can always =

reattach the track rod end whilst you undo the locknut.

Angle grinder.

=================================== A bit of a blindspot there.

A nut splitter couldn't remove it because there's no access for a nut splitter, at least not the kind I've got.

Cic.

Well, it's usually corroded threads which are the problem and there's far more thread on the 'end than nut.

Given your experience with KF, I'd be inclined to remove the assembly from the rack, clamp the rod in a vice and heat the 'end properly. I've yet to find anything that won't come undone with a suitable amount of heat.

Chopping the car into bits is a bit severe don't you think?

It's a Punto...

Chris

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The ? mark shaped ones are your friend. However the Mapp gas kits are mo= re =

use and about the same price.

Sounds like I have a few weeks before any real ware and tare will occur. I'll have a stab, KF said they would fix it for free last time I was down. I just had to leave my car with them for the day. Came back many hours later and it looked to be parked in exactly the same position as I left it. Said they had worked on it though. Fingers crossed.

I had considered the angle grinder. But I'd probably damage the thread of the steering rack and I don't know how easy that is to replace.

Start simple and work my way up. Should be an interesting one.

Thanks for the tips all. I don't have a blow torch, but I do have a camping stove :D

Tim

you need a blow torch at least, preferably oxy acetylene, the job will then take only moments and cause minimal extra damage.

An oxy acetylene set is beyond most amateur's pockets, though, let alone the size and storage of such a thing.

A domestic blowlamp will do fine - and you can get dual gas ones which give a pretty hot contained flame for not a lot of money.

The tiny ones are about £40 & smaller than a briefcase, no use for welding but great for getting things hot.