Switch contacts.

Old Rover hasn't had much use recently, as MOT and work was needed - now done. Got pressed into service over the holidays and lots of the electrics don't work. I know how to sort them - clean the switches. But it's obvious that the switches which have high current loads still work fine, while those switching only relays, so a tiny current, have problems. And all the switches are a similar design.

They are easy enough to strip and clean. All the contacts are plain copper.

So what would be the best type of grease or whatever for the contacts to keep them from oxidising?

Just for added info. The hazard warning switch - a pretty complex switch, but handling the full lighting load - still works fine, despite having little use. The heated rear window one - a simple on/off - but switching a relay, doesn't, despite getting much more use than the hazards. When a switch is stripped and cleaned, the contacts look to be in perfect condition.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)
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DeOxit (dual step cleaner and then preserver) is the best I know of.

Reply to
MrCheerful

Thanks - I'll give it a try.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

My go-to for anything like this is Servisol 'Super 10'.

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What I was at BT I think they described that as contact 'wetting (/whetting)'. With no current passing though to remove any oxidisation you ended up with insulated 'contacts'. ;-(

However, many contacts are designed to be self cleaning to a degree in that they wipe over each other to some as they make / break.

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

This used to be a problem with early designs of after-market electronic ignition (either "transistor" or capacitor discharge).

Too little current passing through the distributor points lead to ignition cutting out occasionally.

I fitted a simple plug and socket so that I could switch immediately to conventional ignition when the engine cut out. Then switch back the next time I was parked.

Reply to
John Henderson

Clever (simple) solution. ;-)

When we built the kitcar (30+ years ago) we used a Luminition with the optical chopper so that overcame that issue (but without the resilience) but by removing the points we may have caused a bit more dizzy spindle movement and hence timing scatter.

Nothing that a new dizzy or bearing wouldn't fix, if I could ever be bothered. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

Cleaning and conditioning the contacts with a suitable contact cleaner might work but even then humidity, atmospheric contaminants, lack of contact wetting and lack of regular use to won't help.

If it were still available to the general public I'd suggest gold electroplating of the contacts. The last time I bought any solution (circa 80 quid for a small

100ml? bottle) was maybe 30 years ago.

P.S. Gold plated 13A mains plugs don't improve the sound of hifi :)

Reply to
The Other Mike

Wire a wire wound resistor in parallel with the relay to increase the current?

Wire a capacitor across the switch? It will discharge a high current though the switch contacts when they close.

Reply to
Peter Hill

Indeed. It's exactly what happens. They work just fine for a while after cleaning, then revert. Even more so on a car not used daily.

Did wonder about that - but would silver be just about as good?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Whilst it's iirc the best conductor Silver will rapidly oxidise, within a sealed reed switch it is ok almost forever but with anything exposed to the atmosphere and its as bad as copper.

Rhodium plating is another possible option

Reply to
The Other Mike

Wetted mercury used to be very popular!

Reply to
Fredxx

Halogen headlamp bulb on a flying lead and switch it a few times?

Reply to
pointless29

By the time you'd rigged that up, just as easy to clean the switch. ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

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