VAG 1.9 SDI Engine Oil (VW Golf SDI / Seat Inca SDI etc)

OK, I forgot about the 1.4 PD. But I suppose 75 bhp is quite high for a 1.4!

There's also the 1.2 PD from the Lupo 3L. I've only ever seen one of those in the UK. It was in Bala IIRC

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What you need is Castrol GTD Magnatec 10w-40 not GTX. The GTD says on the label "meets the spec for VW 550 00 and 500 00. Millers Oils do an oil that meets the higher spec for pump deuce engines and at a reasonable price I believe. Getting hold of it may be a bit tricky though.

Dave H

But the VW dealers insist GTX, not much I can do about it I'm afraid.

Mines had it changed every 10K for the last 200,000 & it's got no detectable wear.

"AstraVanMan" wrote in message news:AROEc.3$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe2-gui.server.ntli.net...

Messages re: PD oil.... I too have very serious doubts about dealing with both Skoda and their dealerships.... Skoda stated that the dealerships are allowed to sell their own products and I'm dubious about dealing with garages who sell goods which don't add-up to the information supplied by the manufacturers.

Having bought a new vRS recently, I was told to keep an eye on the engine-oil level. After a few hundred miles the oil needed topping-up....obtained one litre from the local dealers and had to use nearly 3/4 of it. I had to return to the place of purchase (Mitchell Skoda/Wirral) a couple of weeks later and decided to buy a 5-litre container of PD oil just in case this was going to be one of those engines they described....some may need a little but some may need a lot, so I was told.

I was previously told by this dealership that the manufacturers part number required was: G052167A2/5. I asked for this and was given something called "FUCHS" Titan supersyn pd....as I'd only just purchased the car (NEW) from them, I had no reason to doubt them at this point and handed the receipt to my wife. Couple of weeks later she handed me the receipt, which I'd forgotten about, and it was only then I'd noticed that the details on the receipt didn't correspond with the product supplied.

They had assured me that the oil supplied was the oil to use..... now, at this point in time certain alarm bells were ringing. It may be O.K. for them to say it was alright to use but, what if I used it and something went wrong with the engine ?? No good asking the dealership, they could say anything, being naturally biased towards the product(s) they sell....yes?? So, I 'phone Skoda, several times, who, to cut a long story short, confirmed my suspicions.....".....This oil is not on our compatibility list but it doesn't mean it's not compatible....what specification is on the oil container??" "Er...none. If I use this "FUCHS" oil and there was a warranty claim against the engine, would Skoda accept the claim ??" "If it's not on our compatibility list and it proves not to be compatible then Skoda wouldn't accept an engine warranty claim, you will need to take this up with the dealership"..... As this dealership was recommended to me by Skoda, in the first instance, it does tend to leave me with some serious doubts as to whom is kidding whom ?? I ended by telling Skoda to close their file as I felt the trust had gone out the window.... Oh! the other small problem was one of some small paint touch-up spots....these had obviously been applied prior to me collecting the car from the compound where large stone chippings were the temporary ground-base !! Skoda said I should again take this up with the dealership as it wouldn't be covered under a warranty claim...they also said, as I'm sure we're all aware, that it would be my word against theirs!! I shouldn't have been so trusting but they shouldn't have been careless, they've lost a customer....I couldn't trust them with the servicing if they use oil with *no* specification markings and don't use the genuine stated-product. I have tried to contact the dealership and left a message with a certain person who assured me that somebody would 'phone me the following day and I'm still waiting....I suppose I could report the matter to the Trading Standards Office about the oil being sold under a false description....according to the part number confirmed, that is.

Colin.

Colin.

Sorry to here what should have been a simple purchase. Just plain bad service, I think as always its hard to find a dealership who care, but when you do keep with them......a good reputation is hard to come buy.

I just hate to think about people who dont know much about cars and rely on dealerships to get it right. Heck i learnt on this newsgroup about the dangers of using the wrong anti freeze ie it can speed up or destroy cooling systems seals!

What engine is it? What brand of oil has been used?

Peter

I think it was me. He often exceeded 20k miles by a couple or three thousand miles. No problem whatsoever. He now runs a BMW 5 series but is already planning to change back to a new Allroad when he has about

Huw

Fair enough. I still wouldn't be convinced unless it had 500k on the clock with 20k oil changes all through its life, and still running sweet. I'm the eternal pessimist.

Peter

I've seen a lot of dead Audi A6 diesels on eBay. It seems that they do thei r cams in on a regular basis. Curiously there used to be a Volvo 245 V6 th at did the exact same thing. In the case of the Volvo it was definitely a d esign fault as increasing the oil flow to the camshafts robbed the cranksha ft of oil unless a high capacity oil pump was fitted. As to the A6 problem could it be same as the PRV problem or could it be the wrong oil?

To be honest I think most modern cars are rubbish as I used to run a Triump h GT6. The block was "Chromalloy" which resisted wear extremely well and as far as I know in the cars entire life the cylinder head never came off. Of course the rust bug got it in the end but it was great while it lasted. Un fortunately they no longer make cars that are as durable as a tractor.

If wear to the cam doesn't kill them -and this is EXCLUSIVELY engines that have been run on the long-life long term oil change plan- then *some* (depends on engine code) will fall foul of the oil pump chain failure !

Athough the cars entire life was probably over before the A6s second service.

With respect, that is bollocks. Pretty well all engines in the GT6 days would need a re-bore at some point in their life, and usually at well short of 100,000 miles, even if serviced on the dot. Most modern engines can do more than double that, if looked after.

The Datsun 'L' series being a Japanese improvement of the Mercedes SOHC design was a complete and utter revelation to UK motorist that dared to buy Japanese.

Utter dependability for 125K miles with just normal servicing and then the body fell apart. This was at a time when Ford was offering the Pinto that needed a cam and rocker set at 50K.

Dad had a Triumph 2000 that snapped it's crank at under 1000 miles. A Rover 2.6 that was such a POS that I blinked and missed it. An Audi 100S coupé that although it did 80K had a cracked head and it was hard to find anyone within 50 miles that could service it's brakes. A Cortina MK111 estate for the business that had to be bumped started every damn morning, even in summer, despite having a whole new starter system, battery, motor, cables.

Bought a 610 180B Bluebird while on holiday in Wales to replace the Cortina. It did everything that was asked of it and that was for the Antique trade with roof rack and tow-bar. An 810 Bluebird estate followed. Then a new 910 Bluebird GL estate. Then the Audi 100S was given the boot for a new 910 Bluebird GL coupé - a "SSS" spec motor with high lift cam, 2mm bigger inlet, 1mm bigger exhaust, Twin Hitachi SU, but without the electric mirrors and voltmeter.

a friend had a datsun cedric estate with a 6 pot, the only fault the car developed was that the alternator brushes wore out at about 130 k, naturally it rotted away causing its passing. Another bought a Mazda something in the early 70s (maybe late 60's), brilliant car, no trouble till terminal rot set in.

My first "Japanese" car was one of the first Sunny's built in Sunderland, an emergency 12 year old buy at auction after a Montego broke a drive shaft; £195 with a year MOT, best part of a year tax, good tyres and 3/4 tank of fuel. Something of a revelation after a varied assortment of British and French vehicles, mostly 10 years old or more. The only time the spanners came out was for a puncture (and that was caused by hitting a damned great pothole). Next MOT it had something like 7 unrevealed failures: a shock, some joints, exhaust, corroded brake pipe, drive shaft boot. Not a difficult choice to scrap it!

As a sixth former in the 60's I sold petrol at a garage where Donald Campbell had an account. Never met him, but he had one of the first Toyota's in the country. According to the owners (one of whom was Jeff Allam's dad) he used to complain that he had had to replace *another* light bulb.

No Sunnys were built at Sunderland AFAIK First one was the Bluebird and then the Primera and the Micra

I mean Bluebird, of course. It's my age, you know.