Question on brake wear

What did you do on the "Test Drive"? There is a short brake-in period that seats the pads. You should only brake lightly during this period. It may be that the shop drove the car enough to acomplish the brake-in before you drove it.

That said, if the rotor continues to show signs of heating, it may be that the caliper is not retracting properly, or stuck. If so, it may need to be rebuilt, or the caliper mounting cleaned. (And, usually, calipers should be rebuilt in pairs.)

Most brake pad makers recommend a number of stops using heavy braking to bed in new pads, followed by a cooling period of little or no braking. This method has worked well for me over many years.

Cooling period yes, heavy braking NOOO! (At least not until the pads and rotors have come to terms with each other!) The instruction that come with some of the pads reommend very light breaking, followed by cool down, then intermediate, followed by cooldown, then heavy after several cycles of the light to intermediate stops with cooldown.

I start with light "dragging" the brakes for a short time, followed by cooldown. Then a normal light application, but not to a complete stop. Then, the rest of the process.

It's not necessary to come to complete stops. You should be aware that the first few brake applications cause the rotor and pads to "mate". The braking action will likely be poor until this takes place. Early heavy braking can cause hot spots to develop, which may damage the rotors. Glazing is also a possibility.

"Most brake pad makers recommend a number of stops using heavy braking to bed in new pads, followed by a cooling period of little or no braking. This method has worked well for me over many years."

We can't generalize about this. It depends on the pad material. Some metallic racing pads call for 10 maximum-effort stops right up front, to bake a binder material out of the lining. Follow the manufacturer's instructions.