2001 Ml Fuel Pump

Hello all,

Just had my gas gage go and the dealer said the electrics work through the fuel pump and there is a short in the fuel pump that controls the gas gage. . The dealer said Mercedes doesn't make these fuel pumps anymore and the new fuel pump requires the whole gas line be changes. They want $960.

Unbelievable.

Anyone have a similar experience?

Thanks

Reply to
PaulB
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And the car is about 6 days out of warranty?

Well, this is your first lesson in M-B dealer repairs. It's time to call an independent shop.

Reply to
T.G. Lambach

Unfortunately, this is correct. The new pump is modified and will need some new pipework and maybe a modified filter too. It's a right bitch of a job. Rear seats out. Rear carpet out. Remove a bonded section of floor. And that's just to get to the pump! The filter and pipework mods fit between the chassis and body in the left/rear wheel arch.

Reply to
Lee

What model is it? Sounds realllllllllly bogus that they don't make 2001 parts anymore, but ole Jerkin Shrimp does need more income to fund his retirement plan.

mcbrue in the trailer down by the river under the bridge

96 S420
Reply to
mcbrue

In the US Federal law requires the OEM's to maintain a supply of service parts for (I think) 10 years. Go slap the dealer, he's a $^^$&# LIAR!!

Davehd

Reply to
Dave HD

Actually, they aren't required to provide an identical ready-to-fit part, but something that will "work" even if other parts must also be replaced, as in this case. Basically, the fuel pump was redesigned to correct some problems, so the old problematic part is no longer available.

Reply to
Rodney T. Grill

Paul:

The early ML's, MY1998 through early MY2000, had known problems with the fuel pump. The most benign symptoms were an erratic fuel gauge and the worst were complete failure of the pump, this leaving you stranded. The fuel pump in your MY2001 is the 2nd generation, which is generally not subject to those failures. However, there were some general problems with insufficient fuel delivery (mainly on the V8 models), so a 3rd generation pump was created. This newer pump does require larger fuel lines and a larger filter and is now the only part available, which does in fact mean that if you need a new fuel pump, you will have to have all this work performed.

Now, my question to you is, what is the symptoms of your fuel gauge failure? If it is that it stays on empty, then I may have a solution for you. I had a problem with mine where I would fill the tank, but the gauge would not go to 1/1. Instead it would stay at the pre-filled level, and even continue to drop as I drove, almost as if I had not filled the tank at all. Sometimes it would fix itself after some driving and a few restarts, other times it would fix itself after a few refillings of the tank. While my truck was under warranty, the dealer replaced the instrument cluster and installed the

3rd generation fuel pump along with the necessary upgrades. Unfortunately, it did not correct the problem.

One day, I got the bright idea to "reboot" the fuel sender. This is done by disconnecting its wiring harness (which is easily accessible on the frame, at the driver's side rear wheel). Turn the ignition switch to position 2, but do not start the engine. With the ignition on, disconnect the wiring harness, wait a moment, the reconnect it. In all cases, my fuel gauge returned to normal operation. What I have discovered is that there is a "fuzzy logic" circuit in the system that is used to damped variances in fuel level due to the shape of the tank and motion of the fuel when the vehicle is moving. Apparently, this logic is sometimes confused after a large change in fuel levels and this "reboot" process just resets its starting point so that it will work again.

There is a setting that can be changed in the AAM that will disable this fuel gauge dampening, but there are trade-offs in doing that. One thing this setting will cause are gauge fluctuations as you drive. Also the gauge will not accurately show the volume of fuel; instead it will show the "level". Since the tank is not perfectly rectangular, there is a greater volume in the first 1/2 of the tank than the bottom 1/2. My gauge is extremely accurate in that I can drive as many miles on the last 1/4 as I did in the first 1/4. So far, I've had to reset the circuit about five times over the last few years so it's not a big deal. Also, I have noticed that it is more of a problem when I fill the tank very full from a very empty state. I have gotten to where I refuel just below 1/2 a tank and that seems to help.

Reply to
Rodney T. Grill

Thank you very much :) Paul

Unfortunately,

Reply to
PaulB

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