99 dodge intrepid fuel pump low voltage

I don't want to

I went through the IATN database and searched Mitchel On Demand and found no recalls or TSB's relating to fuel pump problems. Tons of problems with cam sensors... Ben

I cant figure out why a shop wouldnt check voltage and amperage during a fuel pump diagnosis. Did you pay them to replace the pump or to diagnose the problem? If they were paid to diagnose the problem then you shouldnt have to pay parts and labor on the pump. Anyhow... So, you've got 8.5 volts @ the pump. The next thing to check is the voltage input and output at the relay. You should have battery voltage to the relay with the key on.If you have battery voltage out of the relay *when cranking*, there is a bad wire or connector between the relay and the pump. I see this quite often. Good luck, Ben

Ben, I will pass this on. I had another intrepid, a 2001 that I had a motor put in and the car would only run if the cam sensor was not plugged in. They could not figure it out so they called in a Chrysler trouble shooter and found out the cam timing was wrong because the new motor was a newer model so they had to pull the front off and chance the timing on it so this guy is going to check out the pump problem. I have had a lot of prior problems with this car shutting off when raining, which was the crank sensor, and then the cam sensor went out. The car in the past would shutter and hardly run sometime but did not do this shutter and loose power since the crank sensor was changed. Does the fuel pump wiring pass through any kind of temp sensors since the overheat problem the other day to cause this problem to prevent engine damage. Everything I checked on, the temp would not cause this problem. I don't have a schematic to follow the wiring and don't know if they even do. This car had a motor put in a few years ago and it is possible they cut some of the wiring harness when they installed the motor. Same garage installed the motor that is doing the work now.

Thanks, Nick

On other thing that just hit me was that the relay is not cycling now. Is there two separate power lines running to the pump? I think they told me that one of the lines had a full 12 volts but the other only had 8.5. How is the pump getting 8.5 volts if the relay is not cycling?

There's only two wires to the pump. If one has 12v and the other 8.5v, then you have a bad ground.

OK here goes... There are no temp sensors or controls for the fuel pump. There is a 4 wire fuel pump relay located in the power distribution center. Dark Blue/White wire powers the relay through a 10 amp fuse, #13 (left side of dash) Brown wire triggers the relay through the ECM Red wire provides pump power from 40 amp fuse #G in the power distribution center Dark green/White wire powers the pump The black wire that grounds the pump is located under the right rear seat. Before I would chase the overheat thing, I would double check all the basics; check all fuses and and voltage drop all the grounds, especially the ones that were disturbed during the engine change. Good luck, Ben

Ben, Thanks for your input. I stopped out the garage today and was talking to the mechanics today and they did not look at the car today but I told them about the ground connection under the back seat for the fuel pump. We pulled the back seat out and there was no ground but there was a modular connection or quick connect for the fuel pump wiring and lo and behold when pulled apart, the jack or connection was full of corrosion. The one large feed wire was corroded off and we had to cut the wire out of the connection and by pass the jack. The car starts right up so I have to go to the bone yard and get a jack and soldier it in and then heat shrink and seal the connection. I don't know how long it would have taken the mechanics before they pulled that jack apart. Thanks for the tip and all your help. I did cut all the wires and soldier them and heat shrink for a temp fix until I can get a jack so you can disconnect for testing. Thanks again, Nick

Cool!

I wouldn't bother getting a replacement connection. Just cut both ends off and splice in new wires. That should be fine. That connector only allows the rear harness to be replaced if it fails. Not really a needed item. For the splice I would use the same size wire solder the connections and seal them with good heat shrink and some brush on sealant. That repair would be better than the original connection.

Hello there I am having the same problem with my car intrepid 99 all of sondly my car refuses to start I check The relay find. But I don't hear the fuel pump. Check the fuses. By the way the other day I hit a bump and I stop The car and the next day it refuses to start. It cranks like it wants to start but refuses. If you can help me out thank you

Is there pressure at the fuel rail?

When you connect a meter across the fuel pump (not disconnecting the pump) do you get voltage?

Is this the original 17-year-old fuel pump in the car?

--scott