I have done some searches and came up with lots of hits about making your
This is not what interests me. Biodiesel is available locally at the same
price as regular diesel and I would like to convert my 1984 240D to
biodiesel. I understand that there are certain hoses and gaskets that need
If anyone has done this I would appreciate some feedback. In particular: a
list of the parts to be replaced, an approximate price, and info on what the
new performance is.
I called the local MBZ dealer and he had no information.
AFAIK there are no changes that need to be made. I ran my 1979 240D
quite happily for over a year on biodiesel (until they closed the one
and only station which carried it. GRRRR.) It was about 10% higher
price than normal diesel, but I got a better than 10% mileage increase
from it. Approx. 22mpg US with regular diesel, 26-28 with bio. Wish I
could find some more.
Talked to my local MBZ mechanic. He had not heard of any changes that
needed to be made. Don't know why anything different would be needed.
It is still mostly dino fuel.
Biodiesel is designated Biodiesel 100 and Biodiesel 20, the 100 and 20
being the percentage of Biodiesel.
You should know that 100% Biodiesel will act as a solvent and dissolve
old fuel residues inside the car's fuel system. These will be captured
in the fuel filters so have some spare filters available. Apparently the
20% Biodiesel doesn't have that property.
The "conversion" that you mention is for those who want to run their
engines on cooking grease to use a loose description. Basically, the
grease congeals in cold weather and that "fuel" needs to be heated to
fuel the engine. So diesel #2 is used to get the engine going and that
involves a fuel switch over mechanism as well as a fuel heater to heat
the grease to a liquid. Sounds like a mess.
There's good information available from the Biodiesel association or
something like that.
Cooking oils from your local McDonald's work but have to be filtered before
mixing it with #2 diesel. Heating the oil helps get it through the filters
and removes nearly all the "impurities" that might cause it to coagulate in
very cold weather. Aside from that you don't need to do anything. By the
way, it smells like french fries out the exhaust. Neat.
Yeah, will have to check them gaskets and hoses...
Check out this book, I received it yesterday, has everything about biodiesel and how to setup your own processor
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
Thanks c.p. but the amount of use my car gets would not warrant the time and
effort to make my own.
Hopefully the book will hepl those who do want to make it.
PS - On my first, second and third attempts to post this, a message bawled
at me that HTML attachments cannot be posted to user groups. I could find no
attachment and deleted your response but I still had the message:
"Outlook Express could not post your message. Subject 'Re: Convert 240D to
biodiesel', Account: 'news.west.earthlink.net', Server:
'news.west.earthlink.net', Protocol: NNTP, Server Response: '441 Posting
Failed (EarthLink does not permit the posting of HTML attachments to
Usenet.)', Port: 119, Secure(SSL): No, Server Error: 441, Error Number:
It's probably telling me I need to get further from MicroCrap.
If I can make the procedure efficient then it's worth it. I set up a supply of
around 100L every Friday from a fast "food" joint two blocks away, if I can make
the whole operation straightforward I will go ahead with it.
Better get busy, or the oil is going to start piling up...
Guess you could heat your house with this stuff too???? That is more
interesting to me personally, since I use a lot more oil and money
Statistically invalid sample: yes, the people we stay with in a house on
Lake Garda in northern Italy have oil :-)
However, given the terrain and location I can imagine that laying a pipeline
would probably be uneconomical, even if it is only a spur from Verona... not
that I know anything about gas pipeline economics...
Dunno if oil is "popular" in Italy, however.
For direct contact replace nospam with schmetterling
"cp" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
Maybe not "popular"... As for pipelines, here in Vancouver at least the oil is
delivered, though it does not
get cold enough here to bother. If I lived in the east, then I'd fer sure get it
The cost of collecting waste vegetable oil and cracking it with methanol
and lye is thought to be about 70 - 80 cents US per gallon, if the waste
oil is free, not counting the cost of energy for heating the reaction
chamber. There is also the cost of a pH tester -- strips will do, and
the cost of some lab glassware and the cost of the various containers
and large vessels necessary. Here's a starter list for a
1 water heater or 55 gallon drum (preferably metal, stainless is great,
no rust, glass lined is great with a drain) with a heat source
underneath capable of heating 20-30 gallons of oil. Ideally, an oil
burner would be great as one could then burn biodiesel to heat the
reaction...but propane is good also. Even an electric water heater will
1 55 gallon drum, plastic is good, translucent or with a sight line so
you can see where the fuel and glycerin have separated
Qty. X methanol or denatured ethanol or if you can manage it, or pure
grain alcohol (which is pretty damn hard to get an exception for --
Qty. X lye
Assorted tubing, clear, valves, stoppers, line crimpers, etc.
Qty 1: Aquarium bubbler or other air source (compressor) to make bubbles
to wash the fuel after draining the glycerin.
Dori A Schmetterling wrote:
Yeh, that fryer book goes into detail on how to do this
(Amazon.com product link shortened)573&link_code=as1
Though the chemicals make me kind of wary of this... though a friend (and the
rest of his family) work for a used oil recycler, he
said the process they use is simpler and the results are the same. Will have to
get together with him and trade secrets, I'll let
know what I learn :-)
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