Perhaps some one can help.
The starter in my 1985 W123 finally took a dump 180 miles from home. I
just need to get the car started, so I can
drive the car back to familiar help. When I turn the key, there's
plenty of power, but the starter soleniod doesn't click, and there's
zero action from the starter. I've tried jiggling and shifting the gear
selector, so I don't think it's the neutral safety switch. I've given
the starter a few good whacks, but because the solenoid doen't click, so
I don't think the ring gear is jammed. Is there another relay/fuse that
I need to check? Is there anyway to push start this car? (automatic).
Anyone know a good independant MB mechanic in the Worcester/Charlton MA
1969 300SEL 6.3
Michael, the car will theoretically push start. Push the car to 30 MPH in
neutral then engage "S" position. Have the key on.
I thin the neutral switch grounds a relay. The relays are atop the driver side
shock tower. Try switch around the relays there (they are all the same). Also,
you may be able to apply voltage to a terminal there (it will be by jumping
terminal 30 (battery) and terminal 87 (output) on the relay. Not much chance of
bothering anything if you are careful.
Next time break down closer and I will help you go get it. Benefits of MBCA
425 White Horse Pike
With a 6.9 in his drive, can't he "pull start" the car in a similar manner,
I'm still having problems with my neutral safety switch, and one day the
only way I could get it was to put the shifter clear down to "N" instead of
park. If I did indeed find it the last time I was under the car, it's
extremely loose... and all I did was move it a bit, so I'm still having to
mess with the shifter now and there.
One question: MBCA?
If it starts in N and not in P . it can be the shifter rod bushings are worn [
When going into P , you can not get the rod to push all the way cuz of the
Gate trim stop, whereas in N , there is no definate stops..
Othewise , it is the switch -- which has oblonged mounting holes for
The conntacts for P and N are the same inthe switch , but the operating cams
See if back lamps come on when shifter is exactly in R. This will tell of
These switches are susceptical to moisture/water and are commonly changed
On 30 Nov 2003 14:00:11 GMT, email@example.com (Bill Ditmire) wrote:
Thanks for your always generous advice. As it turned out, the problem
was indeed a jammed starter, and a another well positioned thwack
while the power to the starter was engaged allowed it to turn and
start the engine. I then drove to NYC without turning the car off. A
friendly and Mercedes knowledgable good samaritan turned up to help,
and he felt that this type of problem typically occurs when the
bushings/bearings inside the starter wear allowing the gear to twist
slightly off axis. I guess I need to put in another new or rebuilt
starter, even though the one in the car was just 'rebuilt', presumably
without replacment of the problematic bushings.
I'm sure you don't remember, but I did buy a car from you about six
years ago, a very cheap 1979 300CD from your 'beater' lot down the
road. Despite the rust, that car did make it coast to coast four
times before I eventually sold it.
1969 300SEL 6.3
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