1974 240D - The day I bought the car, the headlights burned out. No
big deal - went out and bought a new pair. Today (2 months later), I
go out and find that they've burned out again! I'm going to go broke
on headlights if this keeps up!
Is this a well-known issue? Any ideas for a fix, if any? Or do I
just keep having to buy headlights?
Ahhhh, I hope your not touching the glass of the bulb when installing
them... this will cause them to fail very quickly.
IF not, possibly the headlight is leaking and water may be getting on them
and leaving a deposit on them, they must remain 100% free of any deposits,
including human skin oil to last any reasonable amount of time.
If this car is in the USA, (likely due to the RoadRunner e mail
address), this car will most likely have standard US sealed beams that
don't suffer from the handling or sealing issues found with H4 Halogen
bulbs. I suspect that the problem might be a faulty voltage
1969 300SEL 6.3
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I sure as hell hope the headlights aren't leaking - they're
sealed-beam style, and so I can't possibly be touching the actual
I think the alternator's voltage regulator has failed, and so I'm
going to try replacing that before getting new headlights. In the
meantime, I just won't drive it at night.
Let's face it... Most 'Mericans can't find any country other than Texas on
a world map. What makes you think they can replace headlights? Now that
there are clever catches on them, the majority of idiots just take it in to
replace the headlights, so it is not an issue.
Lee (from Texas. ((not a part of 'Merica)) )
Oh come on, that's not fair. At least Americans (who can't tell the
difference between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans) still pump their
own gas, right?
But seriously, I've changed the headlights before without issue. I'm
going to change the voltage regulator and then the headlights and try
If the headlights are, in fact, burned out then the alternator's voltage
or charging regulator is allowing the alternator to over charge the
battery and supply too much voltage to the car's electrical needs. This
overcharging fried the headlights.
| If the headlights are, in fact, burned out then the alternator's voltage
| or charging regulator is allowing the alternator to over charge the
| battery and supply too much voltage to the car's electrical needs. This
| overcharging fried the headlights.
Could be that but could also be a lose connection/poor mount of the lamps
themselves as the mount does act as a heat sink.
So vhat do Hanz und Franz say about der dead lights? If you chust take der kar
to Hanz und Franz at der stealership, dey vill fix der lights und der vill be
no sadness, chust der high bills. Und dat is good fer Ole Jerkin Shrimp who
needs der increased income after the big lawsuit by Kaptin Kirkorian.
mcbrue brightly under the bridge in the trailer down by the river
Its the alternator regulator. Old fault, happened a lot on Ford
Cortinas (there's a name from the past) in the UK. I think they had
(later ones) the ubiquitous Bosch K1 alternator too.
The regulator is screwed (2 screws) into the back of the alternator.
You get a new regulator and brushes (all one unit). Fits in a few
minutes without removal of the alternator, but make sure you
disconnect the battery whilst you perform the task.
Merry Xmas... Rob.
email@example.com (Sunilito) wrote:
Make sure you test the grounding for the alternator and battery.
I had a similar problem with a BMW 320i.
First the battery died out a few times,
i figured it was a poor alternator as the idiot light was on very dim.
After replacing the battery that lasted a few weeks until that battery died.
I since the alternator wasn't chrging by that point I took it in to be
A few weekks went by and that alternator started acting up,
I blamed the Bosch Alternator's regulator.
After replacing the regulator twice I took the whole alternator in to a
a day later the battery was dead again and the alternator had stopped
then discovered the bad grounding of the battery was causing the
Infact regulator was blowing beacause it was acting as primary fuse!
It turned out that the battery ground cable to the engine block had broke
and the the battery grounded to the metal battery tray support was not
because the bolt hole had become a large rust hole. It worked good enough to
ground the car
while running in the daytime, but not when the running at night with the
lights and the accessories on
the alternator idiot light was on very very dimly.
This meant that the car might run several weeks before the problem appeared
again in the form mentioned above.
BIG CLUE: If the battery terminals are tuning black- you are still
BTW: I thank the rebuilder that was kind enough to take the time to test my
car's charging system.
I never had an electrical problem for the next five years.
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