Last plea for help changing steering coupling. 107 V8

Group, I am surprised that I have not been able to find any info on changing the steering coupling on my 107 Mercedes. I have found some vague suggestions that it is easier to drop the steering box then to pull the shaft but this was a post for a 126 not a 107 witch is built like a watch. I have looked at the steering box and it looks Major, Major! to drop this box. I have a Benz shop Manuel, it shows how to remove the steering box witch includes removing the exhaust, dismantling the tie rod system as well as the oil lines are rigidly fastened down to the fender and can not be well accessed without removal of some of the AC components. These instructions are for dropping the box not changing the coupling. My shop Manuel also shows removal of the steering column, it too looks quite involved too but seems more doable. The weird thing is I can not find in my shop Manuel any procedure for changing the steering coupling so I am left to guess weather to do the steering box or the steering shaft and column? Either way it looks like the coupling gets replaced.

Has any one ever changed their steering coupling on a 107 V8 and if so witch direction did they take? help at this venture would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks , Bruce Buchanan

1986 560SL 102K
Reply to
brujan
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Given all the pain involved, are you sure the steering coupling needs to be replaced?

The idler arm's bushings may be worn allowing the idler arm (and tie rod) to lift rather than push the right wheel into a turn.

A professional A/C shop needs to evacuate the A/C lines if you choose to proceed - illegal and dangerous for us DIYers to mess with freon.

What a nightmare.

Reply to
T.G. Lambach

Bruce,

Sent you some files that might help... Looks like replicable bushings in the coupling. Might be able to do this in place. Never did this on my '80

450SL, yet.
Reply to
Bill Pelka

Check out the information at this site.

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Once you arethere, click on the 2759 link. B.J. at
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Reply to
Auto Mechanic

The Coupling was clicking back and forth because the rubber was gone from it. I don't know why? That has never happened before on any of my cars. BTW I am a licensed AC mechanic by the state of Texas but still I had no interest in dealing with that steering box. It looked like days of trouble to get out. I have now replaced the coupling, and so others can know, NO NO don't drop the steering box on a 107 to change the steering coupling, it would take untold hours and expense that is not needed. Since my posting of inquiring as to witch way to move on this I have found the answer. Pull the steering column! I was not eager to drop the box so I took things into hand and started with the column against advise on the group. 5 hours later the car is back together with it's new coupling and it drives with out the wheel click. For the record I removed air bag and horn pad, the steering wheel, the instrument cluster, the cover under the dash, the cover at floor around steering column and slid it up, removed two 13M bolts at top of and holding column to cross member, loosen clamp around key lock at the column, remove lock assembly by turning key on and depressing small round button inward that holds lock to column it is next to clamp, column will now twist counter clockwise and drop down from dash, tie it up with string so it will not fall and do damage, remove two allen bolts from steering coupling, shaft will now pull out of coupling. I had to spread the coupling with a wedge to get it to come from the steering box. For reassembly just read this upside down. This was not hard for me to do once I made up my mind to start and a less feeble pearson could probably do the whole job in about 3 hours. Hope this helps some one some day Thanks, Bruce Buchanan Najurb

Reply to
brujan

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