Insurance is intended to repair or replace. Most old cars are pretty run
out and not worth much so fixing them is more costly than replacing
them. So if you invest a lot of $$ in this 21 year old car it will be up
to you to prove its superior condition (and correspondingly higher than
average value) in the event of a claim. I went through this a few years
ago - and won, on physical condition, complete maintenance history and
the insurance company knowing that the car could not be replaced within
90 days. So they paid $5,800 to fix it.
you would be suprised that some polishing compound will do to bring out
the real color
as for every thing else just do what the guys are telling you.
my tranny has been slipping on shifts now for 3 years .
changed filters fluids they have tried every thing.
still driving it shifting it my self
its an 82SD with 270,000
when it goes it turns into a parts car
the case, minus a few cans!
Zymol, IMO and many others, is a big waste of money unless you want to
show your car and wax it the same day you show it. If it stays inside
go with P21S if it stays outside go with One Grand Blitz Wax.
Get the expensive Carnauba that is intended to be hand applied. Clean with
Zymol cleaner first. Then get the wax started before taking the car out
again. You'll waqnt to put on numerous coats, but each one takes a long
On Tue, 19 Apr 2005 20:51:35 -0400, pool man wrote:
Amen - when I got my 81, it was a flat dust brown from years of
neglect. I HATE polishing compound - it's basically liquid sandpaper, but
after waxing and waxing and waxing the dead finish with less than
wonderful results, I finally gave up and used the polishing compound. Now
it's the deep rich brown color you wish your cup of hot chocolate was.
She's all purty and shiny now. Just be careful not to do this trick
routinely, and be careful not to confuse rubbing compound with polishing
compound - it's even more abrasive.
Damn - I've got to wait another 230,000 miles before
I can scavenge parts off your car?
Can you give me a play-by-play on what you did with your car - you
mentioned polishing compound. My car is dull brown - judging by
absence of rust it's been washed, but done so in commercial washes.
What did you do and what should I?
Here's a play by play of what I did.
1) first, as I mentioned above I tried waxing - multiple times.
It was an improvement, but left much to be desired.
2) I washed the car carefully - it's amazing how much dirt
can stick to your car - and all of that dirt is a great
source of scratches when you start rubbing the car.
3) Repeat step 2. Really
4) I bought some polishing compound (not rubbing compound)
at the local car parts place. I also got some paint cloths,
which are supposed to be clean and free of any potentially
5) I found a place I wouldn't have to look at (in my case,
the center of the roof) just in case I did something bad
to my paint.
6) I moistened one of the paint cloths, dabbed it into the
polishing compound, and started rubbing. When I saw how
nice and shiny the paint was, I promptly wore my arm out doing
the rest of the roof.
7) I awoke the next day unable to move my arms.
8) Back to the parts store to buy a buffing machine.
Don't get the simple circular kind. Get the random orbit
9) apply the buffer to all the flat surfaces of the car. Be
VERY careful on sharp curves and corners - I still did
all of these by hand. It's possible to do them with a buffer
but you've got to have a light touch, or you can burn
right through the paint with a power buffer.
10) wash the car again.
Very informative, thanks. Bonus: bird joke is funny :)
I'd like to wash, dry, and wax in the same spot. But I can't wash
around my apartment building, and the nearest carwash is across the
dirt road. So I can't wash, then drive home, let it dry, then wax. I
can't sit at the wash and let it dry, either. Do I hand-dry it?
I bought a complete set of "factory" manuals from my local MB dealer for the
240D and 300D. It was a set of 4 rather large manuals that cover everything
except the auto trans. As I recall it cost me in the $125 range for all of
My stealership said 'it would have to be a special order from Germany
to get those manuals'. But then again, according to them, a set of
Euro lights for my 300SD would cost $950, an oil change and lube is
$600 + tax, and they would even "clean out the cassette player". At
that point, I started laughing and hung up in the rudest of fashions.
Very ironic - the dream DIY car is one of the most expensive ones to
I don't doubt that. Do you think $100-150 is reasonable for a CD of
scanned images of the manual on Ebay?
Also, I'm starting to make myself anxious thinking about possible
repairs that I cannot do on my own. We are moving in a few weeks, and
it seems there are no independent mechanics working on MB diesels
around our new home. My new 300SD is in pristine condition, every
repair done on time at the dealership in Florida, every receipt saved.
It's at 130,000 now. Should I just replace things that
could-maybe-possibly stall my new Benz NOW while I still have the
access to somewhat decently-priced labor? What are the chances of a
well-maintained vehicle like that blowing a tranny, or snapping timing
chain, etc? It's a 21-year-old car, after all ...
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