brake fade!!!!

You claimed brake fade was a soggy pedal earlier!! I suggest you don't give advice about stuff you are still learning about.

As for discs

Or floating disks.

Reply to
Burgerman
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Hull is only 30 miles away.

Reply to
Conor

We're going to have to get one sorted out some time.

Reply to
Conor

I know the one. It's got a few bends on it. OR turn left before it and tank down that long straight.

Reply to
Conor

heh, nice! shame you only have about 1500 revs left after tickover :)

Reply to
Carl Gibbs

You're back again are you? Have you recently completed A Level Physics or something and now think you know everything? (but dont may i add) I was once like you and picked and arguement with Mr Burgerman (sir), and trust me its a very bad move!! Unlike some who think they know everything, he DOES know everything :)

Reply to
Carl Gibbs

roundabout.

You mean instead of turning up folkton brow, just follow the road along into Muston? I like that road :)

-- Dan

Reply to
Dan405

Yea i was gonna join in as this tart obviously has no idea what he is talking about, but then Burgerman disproved everything he said so totally that it didn't seem worth it :)

-- Dan

Reply to
Dan405

well i'm officially not in education any more, so thats ok :)

Reply to
Carl Gibbs

At the recent Saab trackday, one of the guys brough along a lazer thermometer to measure brake temps.

Can't remember figures, but brakes smelt bad, and discs glowed.

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

You miss the point.

Only dummies and AOL users confuse the two.

Brake fade (Braking power fading!) is caused by pad/disk temperatures at the interface point, namely the pad...

Brake pedal TRAVEL or spongy, brake pedals do NOT alter the braking performance. They only alter the feel! NOT the braking power.

Ten pounds braking pressure still gives the same braking force with a solid pedal as it does with a soggy one...

The amount of pedal travel is not "brake fade" as such.

Brake fade is a fall off in braking force at the same pedal pressure. (nothing to do with pedal travel).

Reply to
Burgerman

snip

When fluid boils the pedal just dosen't get soggy it usually goes straight to the floor -- zero brakes even if you do get some warning for mechaincal and human reasons the bottom 1/3 of the pedal travel is nearly so effective at converting human thigh muscle effort into PSI at the brake caliper as it is at normal pedal height. Any time the fluid has been overheated or the may have had water ingress it should be changed, the difference between the boiling point of fresh fluid and old water satured fluid can be as much as 450 degrees.

Reply to
AWM

Never used it on my brakes, but I have one (for measuring CPU / HDD operating temp mostly) and will try it later!

Reply to
Tim S Kemp

I KNOW. Listen dummy, ANY pad no matter what shape it is, that has double the area also has half the pressure and half the energy per area unit for a given braking force... So LOCALISED heat on the pad is halved!

Why don't you give up before you make yourself look even more stupid!!!

?????????

Wrong again... Longer pads are always an advantage as they stay "flatter" when pushed against the disk. And when they are long "enough", extra pistons are the easiest mechanical way to go - a necessity.. Some racing calipers have Six pistons, like my old Suzuki 6 pots. Thats 12 pistons, 2 LONG pads on two 310mm floating disks on ONE wheel.

Wrong again... You dont want even pressure, which is why most even the majority of 4 pots have smaller leading pistons as yet another attempt to get even non tapered pad wear. As they twist naturally "inwards" your "even" pressure finishes up uneven! This is what causes the extra pedal travel and worse brakes after a good track day... I used to remove my pads and stick them in the lathe and machine them flat after a good thrash or some serious braking. Then the lever felt good again.

You really are making yourself look a right tit! Great fun for me, KEEP IT UP!

?

Wrong, again. I already explained that to get even wear you actually DO NOT want even pressure... Depends on the pad thickness and piston sizes, but in almost every case the leading pistons are smaller especially NOT to get even pressure!

I wonder if you will get something right soon?

You mean it should be built accurately? dur...

Wrong again... They do not bend. They twist forwards, off the piston, leaving a pad that is not flat. They actually go slightly curved as the leading edge wears faster than the trailing due to them twisting under severe braking. They "rock" back and forth slightly on a flat plate, and they are tapered from thin leading edge, and thicker trailing edge.

You obviously have not a clue...

Well its been running without any leaks or problems on 4 motherboards and 4 CPUs (all seriously overclocked of course) but more importantly its SILENT (and next to my bed) and totally safe and reliable. And a speed increase of about 33 percent, with a bus speed increase too is NOT a tiny gain.

And its about a 300 quid saving on the current fastest CPU available which is still loads slower!

And for what its worth you can safely submerge your motherboard and CPU and Graphics card under water and it wont damage it at all. Once dry it will boot up and run normally, and as usual you do not know what you are talking about.

And... Considering water and electricity dont mix, how about, Dishwashers, Washing mashines, Fridges, Cars, Hydroelectric, Central heating boilers, kettles, water heaters, Electricity pylons... Etc etc etc

You are a real dummy! And jelous too?

My knowledge comes from a few achievements, and liftime experience in about

10 times as much stuff as the short list following:

I have been racing bikes and cars since I wrote a few off when I was about

17, and now I am 43. During these years, I designed and built a computerised automotive dynamometer systems (commercially), to test costomers drag car/bike engines, and developed the bike version into a mobile unit (trailer) so I could also test and develop my own home designed and built Nitrous injection systems at the same time!

I have also personally built and raced dozens of different vehicles over the years with and without turbos/nitrous etc, all personally built and set up successfully both on the track and the strip.

As an example, On the drag strip in the later years, I used to race my regular "street" bike that was also my road bike, this could run a 0 to 170+ mph in 8.3 secs over a standing quarter...

This used a home designed and built big turbo installation, and a Home designed and home built 2 stage nitrous system, and rpm switch controlled air shifter, that was all set and developed on my own home built and home designed motorcycle computerised inertial dynamometer, that was built (by me!) into a trailer.

This was towed by my own self built, converted V8 Rover 5 speed (that I also built) ford sierra salloon "tow" car, with my own home designed and built Nitrous system installed!

The tow car alone did 60 in 4.7 secs, 13.7 second standing quarter. I also build gas turbines & pulse jets from scratch, and robots, for fun and have an official IQ of 154. (putting me in the top 0.097% of the population) and spent years working for EMAP magazines testing and measuring performance on everything that is built and modified to go fast!

Now, where does your extensive knowledge & experience come from? School?

Reply to
Burgerman

Then it hardly "faded" then has it!

Yes so?

This has nothing to do with your "argument"???

Of course crap fluid will boil.

Reply to
Burgerman

Burgerman waffled on in a quite bewildering manner to produce...

I do sense a bad case of "flung dummy syndrome"

Pete M

Reply to
Pete M

Not at all its fun!

Reply to
Burgerman

It was only a matter of time... (c:

Douglas

Reply to
Douglas Payne

I take it you drive an aircooled car then? (rad fan thermo switch) And never drive when it is wet then? (remember, all modern cars have the shell forming the ground (- terminal) of a connection).

A car uses DC for it's electrics, at a nominal 12v (as low as 8v when cranking the engine over, and upto 14+v when running on the alternator, but between 12-13.8 based on the battery system).

A PC internally uses DC current, and the most voltage you will find is in the 12v rail. Very similar to a car.

As long as you make sure your water pipe work is sealed correctly, pre- switch on, there is no reason to believe you will have a problem.

And it is no different to a pond or fishtank immersed pump.

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

Rubbish. I too have "never drove any car that you couldnt turn the brakes into a very smoky smelly mess after a bit of spirited driving on country roads". "Spirited Driving" is the operative phrase.

130mph to 30mph, as quick as possible, more than once, WILL cause brake-fade on a road car.

That's not fade - that is boiled fluid. A completely different thing !

Reply to
Nom

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