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88 GT Convertible - Restore Info.

Ok...I got flack on the regular ford NG for posting this in a manner which didn't use the correct lingo so here it goes...

I have a 1988 Mustang GT Convertible and live in the Ottawa area. I'm looking for general information about restoring the car to showroom like condition with some modification to the drive train (I would like a little more HP).

So what I'm looking for here are some ideas/opinions about where this can be done in the Ottawa, Ontario area. I would also like to know how much I should potentially budget (I know this may be a big range and that's ok, please be realistic).

A little about the car:

1988 Mustang GT (COBRA - they all were that year in Canada) convertible. Red exterior (fading in places) White/Red interior White top (in great condition) Orginal 5.0L engine with 155,000km on it. Automatic

The car is in pretty good shape. I just put on a flowmaster exhaust (not too keen on how loud it is though).

The drive door seems to "hang" a little and when changing the trim I see someone put rivets so it may need to be changed. The car needs a really nice paint job too (ground effects are faded to an almost pink color). I would also like to change out the seats and put some newer ones in (front/back). The interior otherwise is really nice so I wouldn't change that other than the stereo. The trim has quite the wear so I think that needs to be done.

I want the car to essentially look like it did coming out of the dealer in 1987/88 with the exception of getting a little more under the hood. Any information would be great.

Thank you, Marc

Reply to
88 Mustang GT Conv.
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On Oct 26, 8:26 am, "88 Mustang GT Conv." wrote:

What you're asking is very, very, broad. I'll give my opinion, but I'm sure others' opinions will vary quite widely. I'm working now on my third Mustang (all 5.0 Fox - bodies like yours), and it seems like you're starting with a similar approach to mine. My goal has been what they call a 'resto-mod'. I wouldn't want to do a pure restoration, because I also wanted better performance and creature comforts, especially audio. I guess what I am attempting is to restore everything that needs it, but enhance where I feel it's appropriate. Realize that exhaust and audio will detract from a pure restoration. Next, if you change wheels, suspension, ride height (aka lowering springs - to improve handling), chassis bracing (aka shock tower, K-member bracing, subframe connectors), braking or other things, you also take away from restoration. I guess it's all judgement, the extent to which you favor restoration or modification. I look at it like a sliding scale. My approach has always been to address induction (ie cold-air intake, air meter and throttle body, exhaust, then audio. Somewhere along the line, I add the upgraded higher amperage alternator, and move to stereo. Possible next steps include suspension, braking, further engine work, and wheels / tires. I personally wouldn't do body kits, or drastic interior changes. My goal has always been to keep the body work and interior trim as close to stock as possible, with the possible exception of billet interior dress-up. There are a bunch of good resources. My favorite is Late Model Restoration supply (www.

50resto.com), but there are dozens of others. In my opinion Maximum Motorsports are the kings of suspension and handling, but Eibach is a good, proven commodity, too. For braking, there's a guy who has more tech info than you could use, at
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can't answer budget for you. I've done mine as I can steal moneyaway from a family budget including private school and college tuitionfor two kids. As a result, my work has been slower and more modestthan it might have been otherwise. As another extreme, you could openthe bank, and contract a shop to build a custom stroker motor, andcustom engineer each of these systems. Your answer will lie somewherein between. I could go on for pages. If you have specific questions,ask the group, or drop me a line.
Reply to
Jim C

Jim,

I agree with most everything you wrote, except:

A larger throttle body isn't needed until you change the intake and heads.

And I'm not a fan of cold-air kits. A simpler, less costly, and better IMO approach is to just pull off the stock air intake silencer.

Patrick

at

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I can't answer budget for you. I've done mine as I can steal money> away from a family budget including private school and college tuition> for two kids. As a result, my work has been slower and more modest> than it might have been otherwise. As another extreme, you could open> the bank, and contract a shop to build a custom stroker motor, and> custom engineer each of these systems. Your answer will lie somewhere> in between. I could go on for pages. If you have specific questions,> ask the group, or drop me a line.

Reply to
NoOption5L

Agree on the stock intake, no need to change that. Silencer can go first thing.

Make sure you "read the plugs", and then check compression and the numbers check out OK (about 50 within 10%) Engine may have some carbon built up with that many miles. You may have to put in a rebuildt engine which could impact your bucks to fix everything else.

Going after HP? best to put a blower on it, leave heads alone and get it tuned at a shop.

I have a 5.0 1993 8# KB, rebuilt engine, about 310 hp. also had a 1987 speed density ex cop car tuned hot, a mover

Reply to
biggus

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