'93 LX 5.0 electrical question...

Okay... This is getting really annoying.

Whenever I push in the clutch pedal, I blow a 15-amp fuse and lose my gauges (all except speedometer). I think this goes back to when I had an alternator replaced, but I'm not sure... Something to do with the ignition lock-out, I'm sure.

Question is - if I try a 20-amp fuse in its place, will I risk damaging any of the systems? (May be a stupid question, since, if it's a short circuit, it'll probably blow a 50-amp fuse, as well.)

dwight (I keep putting new fuses in every once in a while, just to make sure the car is running within normal operating parameters. Sure would be nice to have a tach again, though.)

Reply to
dwight
Loading thread data ...

"dwight" wrote in news:bm6se4$itipf$ snipped-for-privacy@ID-40295.news.uni-berlin.de:

dwight, don't do it. You know that. Find the real cause and correct it. Check all the stuff under the dash - it could be as simple as a wire hanging down touching the pedal when you push it in...

Joe Calypso Green '93 5.0 LX AOD hatch with a few goodies Black '03 Dakota 5.9 R/T CC

Reply to
Joe

If your car has cruise you also have the clutch operated cruise disengage switch. Also check for burnt out bulbs ( possibly grounded) in your stop/turn/hazard circuit as it is tied into the cruise circuit too ( the 15 Amp fused circuit you mentioned). StuK

Reply to
Stuart&Janet

I suppose I'll start with the starter/clutch interlock switch... If that's the culprit, I won't have to start pulling the dash apart. Can you imagine the damage I could do?

dwight

Reply to
dwight

?? Brake pedal, yes, but clutch? I remember having the cruise control on (while in 5th gear), and forgetting about it. When I pushed in the clutch to downshift, I revved the hell out of the engine... A tap on the brake pedal cuts out the cruise control.

Sir! There are no burned out bulbs on the Frog! What am I, trailer trash?

There are several 15-amp fuses (light blue). The one I'm talking about is #18 on your menu, and is supposed to control: . safety belt chime (check) . warning lights (check) . fuel injection circuits (I'd swear these were working properly) . tachometer (check - no tach) . idle tracking air control (???) . choke restart control (never had a problem restarting...) . cooling fan / compresser clutch control (which are working, else I'd be overheating all over the highways)

The speed control is in fuse #1, which DOES also control brake lights and hazards.

I'll start with the circuit at the clutch pedal and work my way through...

dwight

Reply to
dwight

Sounds like fuse #18 blowing. Power distribution for that circuit includes:

1) instrument cluster 2) air bag diagnostic module 3) warning chime module 4) low oil warning relay 5) low coolant switch

Component locations behind the dash are:

Low oil warning relay at L/H side of steering column brace. Warning chime at R/H side of radio. Air bag diag module at lower center. I wouldn't mess with this. Instrument cluster is self explanitory.

The one component under the hood would be the low coolant switch located in the coolant reservoir.

They all use a *red w/yellow stripe* wire for power, so keep a watch for that when under the dash. One of the power distribution wires may be getting pinched by the clutch lever mechanism causing a power to ground short. Just a little more mental ammunition before you attack the under dash black hole...

Good Luck

-- Mike

93 Cobra
Reply to
Mike R

Un-plug the clutch safety switch.

Reply to
Ironrod

Thanks, Mike. Yes, it's #18, and the clutch pedal seems to be the place to start. Didn't know about the low coolant sensor, which might be another likely prospect...

dwight

Reply to
dwight

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.