Carburetor Swap questions and one non-carb question.

Hello, i have a 1966 mustang with a 289 and an autolite 2 barrel carburetor. I recently got my hands on a mostly complete and good looking Autolite Carb from 1968. Im not entirely sure of the application, but i think it came off of a 1968 Fairlane with a 289. It has the 1.08 venturis and has a dashpot.

My current carburetor doesnt have the dashpot. Did the dashpots only come on cars with automatic transmissions?

Will this carburetor bolt right on and work for me?

Its number is C8ZF-G. I read on ponycarbs.com that when they rebuild these specific carbs, they take out the engineering problems. Does this mean that this particular carb had more problems than the others?

The person i got it from claims it was rebuilt. If it was done professionally (as opposed to a kit jsut being put in), what should i look for?

On a side note, does anyone know what exactly they do when they rebuild these carburetors to fix the engineering problems that they came with?

And one non-carb question:

My gauges didnt work, they all read the lowest setting all the time (except for the charge on, that one stayed in the middle and always worked). I got a new voltage regulator for the instrument cluster and put it in. Now all the gauges max out. Fuel, oil, and water temp. I know i dont have a full tank of gas, i know my oil pressure isnt at its highest, and i know when i first start the car in the morning, the water temp isnt at its highest. I got a new Oil pressure and Water Temperature sending unit so what else could be causing this? When the engins ie warm, the oil pressure gauge jumps around a bunch. when idling, it shoots down to 0, but when i get above 2k RPMs it shoots up to the highest without stopping anywhere in between.

I know this is kinda long, sorry. Thanks for the help in advance!

Reply to
Errol Smith
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Yes... only the automatic cars had the dashpot - the idea was to close the throttle (the last bit) slowly to prevent stalling.

Taking out engineering problems with a rebuild is an interesting concept....... An engineering problem would be a design problem and would entail "re-engineering" the carb from the ground up - however, there may be manufacturing problems that a keen eye and steady hand can fix. One of the more famous 'manufacturing defects' was on the old Carter ThermoQuad.... two intersecting passages in the carb body were misdrilled and didn't meet correctly causing a lean condition during certain operating conditions. If we were to remove all the welch plugs and soft plugs from any carb, there is a better than average chance that we might find some sort of mass production legacy.

When rebuilding a carb, it should be soaked in a proper "carb cleaning solution" (this stuff is hard to miss - comes in a 2.5 or 5 gallon pail and stinks to high heaven). The newer the carb cleaner, the shorter the soak time - it will turn your carb body black and we should avoid cleaning oily parts in it since oil will "kill" it quickly. After the soak, thoroughly rinse the parts with hot water and immediately blow dry paying special care to air bleeds and passages as well as emulsion tubes and wells. Some of these passages and orofices are very tiny and it doesn't take much dust or wax to really screw things up.

Rebuild time is also a good time to optimize any settings - dry float level, float drop, automatic choke pulldown, choke unloader and so on.

HTH

-- Jim Warman snipped-for-privacy@telusplanet.net

Reply to
Jim Warman

I know how to clean and put a kit into a carburetor. Let me rephrase...what do they do to take out the problems that came with mass production of these carburetors? Problems such as hesitation on take-off, surging on acceleration, and flat spots.

also, what about my gauges? i got a new voltage regulator and instead of going all the way down, they all go all the way up (except for the Amps meter)

Reply to
Errol Smith

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