Follow up to Mustang Airbag Light

From my earlier post on 10/25...

My mistake folks, what I took for flickering actually turned out to be a code. It's a '12' code. Not ever having this issue before I just didn't think this 93 would have a code associated to it. Guess the car is smarter than me ;-)

I've since done a lot more research and found out the reason for the 12 code, but I'll be darned if I can't figure out how to reset it. All the posts, etc say find the grey two wire connector behind the glovebox. I don't have on. I have a black 2 wire connector but the wire colors on the internet don't match up with what I've got. I'll keep hunting, but if someone has some more ideas I'd love to hear them cuz this blinking light is driving me nuts!

Thanks!

mC

93 5.0 LX
Reply to
mC
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codes are on the net somewhere (?) saw them once.

wiring diagrams are on the net too. I have a set.

Ford is notorious for putting identical things in different locations on productions 5.0s under the dash.

I'll check my flickering to see if it is same over and over.

Reply to
AshtarSheran

IT IS. except mine is doing 15 a flash of one, then a flash of 5 .

Anybody seen this ?

Reply to
AshtarSheran

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91 Mustang "Air bag" light flashes? whats wrong with it?

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It is flashing a code. (6)Driver-Side Air Bag Circuit - Open or High Resistance. What you will probably need to get is a diagnostic flow chart for that code. I found this info, I don't know if it will help. I have seen the clock springs break before,it is common when a rack is replaced and the column spins and tightens the spring:

: Code 6 and 32 refer to the Airbag Diagnostic Monitor sensing high resistance in the airbag circuit. The resistance of the circuit is normally around 2 ohms. The circuit consists of the harness from the Airbag Diagnostic Monitor to the base of the steering column, a clockspring, and related wiring inside the column and the airbag itself.

The problem is generally a broken clockspring. It replaces the old brush and slip ring design that was more prone to developing high resistance due to warping or grease buildup on the rings and wear of the brushes. The clockspring is a wound circuit that can rotate with the wheel much like a recoil spring in a lawn mower. It has a center position with a limited range in either direction, usually 3-4 turns each way and like a recoil, is prone to breaking.

Start the diagnosis by disconnecting the battery for a minimum of 10 minutes to power down the system (or unhook the backup power supply if equipped) and remove the airbag from the steering wheel, making sure to set it 'bag up' on a flat stable surface.

Next install a 1- 2 ohm resistance across the steering wheel connector to simulate the airbag

(1 ohm resistors are available at a local Radio Shack. For 2 ohms, simply twist 2 in series). Reconnect the battery and check to see if the code returns. NEVER DO ANY TESTING WITH THE AIRBAG IN PLACE.

91 Mustang "Air bag" light flashes? whats wrong with it?

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Hey be very carefull with them Iam a master tech and sir is one of the areas I cover. Their again Iam a GM tech and love ford, how does that happen . Anyways as long a you disconnect the battery you shoul be ok. But my advise is to get a manual. Also I dont know as far a ford a concerned but alot of times on GM when that high resistance code sets, for what ever reseason , its just a little corriosn build up in the driver side loop connector . Most of the time all that has to be done is disconnect the connector and clean the terminals and plug it back.You might want to try that first because it cost 0 money try and plug it back reassemble everything and see if it resets. If it does its something else , could be the coil(thats what GM calls em)wiring or the inflator module (air bag).But if your not sure what to do please get a service manual or pay some one to do it , because trust me that air bag will hurt you if you F@#% up .Just the main thing is to disconnect the battery just like someone else said.Now I maybe wrong and fords are very differnt than GM but I cant amagine how much. Their system are usually similar.The engineers are not really creative in detroit.Any other questions I will try to answer. good luck!

lowside ......................................................... this is good too:

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Reply to
AshtarSheran

Hey folks,

More follow up from my Airbag adventure...

I've got a 93 LX 5.0 and from everything I've read, everythign I've seen, I can't find this Red/Tan wire and Black wire on the Grey connector. I've found the airbag blue electronics box, the grey connector but not the wire colors as mentioned on the internet.

Anyone have any idea which Pins I should be shorting together?

This sucks... That damn light is going to get me to jump off a building :-)

Thanks again!

mC

'93 LX 5.0

Reply to
mC

"mC" wrote in news:jepTk.586$ snipped-for-privacy@nwrddc01.gnilink.net:

Now why would you be shorting pins? If there's a problem because the car's throwing a code, then find out what the code is and fix the problem.

Reply to
Joe

It's a code 12 and from what I see, I had an additional fuse/wire piggy backed for my XM radio in my fuse box. Some months after putting it in my toe hooked the wire when pushing in the clutch and pulled the piggy backed wire out of the fusebox. In rerouting and hooking up the wire I pulled the airbag power fuse with the key on. From what I can tell this is what set the 12 code. All the power is there and everything is hooked back up, so now I just want to clear the code and see if I have another code (which I shouldn't)

mC

Reply to
mC

"mC" wrote in news:f51Uk.909$ snipped-for-privacy@nwrddc01.gnilink.net:

On a '93, disconnecting the battery for a while should clear codes. The car's not that smart. That said, piggybacking wiring isn't the best thing to do in the first place.

Reply to
Joe

Joe,

Quite the contrary, disconnecting the power does not remedy this situation. I'd agree that after owning this car for the last 11 years that it's not that smart, but apparently it's smart enough not to lose it's code.

I pulled the power for about two hours while working around the airbag module. Getting it out, looking over the grey connector, looking for details on this infamous Tan/Red wire and working off some instructions supplied to me by another Mustang fan.

As for the piggy back situation, I needed an additional keyed power option for my XM Radio setup and putting in a dual fuse holder made sense and was easy to do when needing an additional 2A circuit. It just didn't make a lot of sense getting in and adding a bunch of wiring, etc. Sometimes simple makes sense.

mC

Reply to
mC

"mC" wrote in news:3j8Uk.1039$ snipped-for-privacy@nwrddc01.gnilink.net:

If the code's still there after disconnecting the battery for a while and reconnecting it, you probably still have an issue.

I still don't get why you want to short out pins and play with the wiring, but code 12 indicates no power to the air bag firing circuit. Here's a link ('92 and '93 are basically the same):

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I'd suggest replacing the air bag module (junkyard or aftermarket) and making sure all your wiring is standard OEM (no jury rigging). If you don't do that you'll most likely continue to have problems.

I had the same problem on my '93 a while back (original owner, had car for 15 years) and doing what I outlined above permanently fixed my problem.

If you have an aftermarket radio (just guessing here), you should've hooked the XM thing to the powered circuit on the radio and avoided the fuse box entirely.

Reply to
Joe

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