HELP: 1966 MUSTANG with a 1993 MUSTANG 302 Set-up

One of my buds dropped a 1993 Mustang 302 into his 1966 Mustang and is looking for a harness or wiring digram to use the 1993 alterenator with the bulit in regulator. Can anyone here help with info on eather?

Thanks in advance.

Bill

Reply to
Dapat kang maligò
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Try these references. You will only have one wire going to the battery when using the internal regulator, and you'll skip the 66 oem external regulator.

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Reply to
Spike

You might also take a look at the tech secion of Powermaster

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Reply to
Spike

I wouldn't use the 93 alternator, but the next generation alternator. The connector would overheat burn stuff out, alternator, connector and wire to solenoid block, bad design, on 5.0's all the charge current went through the connector on two small blades. newer is much better has a high current terminal, everything else is stock. you need a fusible link in your wire from alternator to starter solenoid, at the solenoid, for old or new. Had two fail, last one was in flames on the freeway, that was fun.

Reply to
Dear Leader

I was just reading that. Fortunately, I'm not faced with that problem with my old 65 oem style externally regulated. Although I will be making a change with all the upgrades... hologens, stereo, etc. I'll probably end up rewiring the whole car one of these days to be able to handle it all better. I am installing fused relays.

How were the marshmellows? And how many motorists honked as they drove on by?

Reply to
Spike

battery meter started acting weird, stopped at a 7-11, opened hood, lots of smoke, connector was on fire flames, would not blow out, ran in asked for a fire extinguisher, it was a dry type, and gave it a small blast, all done. The wire also burnt out over at the starter solenoid. I think the battery was running low (over 4 years old) which caused too much current from alternator to battery for a longer time and started cooking the connector. Then took it to good alternator shop (they rebuild them there), got it fixed for good with newer type alternator.

Reply to
Dear Leader

SNIP

I am shopping for an alternator. Been looking at Powermaster and PAperformance, then will look in the Summit and Jegs catalogs.

Went to the store last night. Dash lights (and I think tail lights, but not sure) quit about a block from home... so I continued and pulled into the garage. Parked. Checked the switch. No change. Then the dash lights came back on. The battery is a new high crank unit. So I'm thinking the halogens and stereo are pulling a lot of juice. Being an oem alternator, it's only producing 65 amps. Add in the underdrive pulleys that just went in.

Reply to
Spike

65 amps? I was thinking the oem alternator of that era only put out 45 amps, but my memory can always be bad...

One thing you might check (though this probably is not the problem) are the grounds for your stereo and the voltage regulator. If they aren't good grounds, a good stereo can put too much drain on the system even with a higher output alternator.

If you do wind up with a higher output alternator, check the amperage it is putting out at idle. Sometimes they actually put out less amperage at idle than the oem alternator does!

Reply to
vince garcia

the replacement I got was made for Cop cars, puts out more at idle, I think they called it a Ford generation 3, This guy at alternator place says they got fleets of Ford trucks in from delivery companies they upgraded the alternators, and Ford paid for it.

Reply to
Dear Leader

This is an original A Code V8 4bbl and is rated for65 (really more like 62 amps, and probably less at idle).

I have a new light switch to put in it, which I'll do before a new alt. I learned a long time ago with a cooling system problem to start at the cheapest repair and work up rather than the most expensive and find out a $2 part would have done the job. :0)

My dad came by yesterday and over d>Spike wrote:

Reply to
Spike

SNIP

That's because Ford writes it off to their advertising budget which IIRC is deductible off the corporate gross under the tax system. Back when California Highway Patrol got the 5.0s, they cost the state $4,000.00 per car and Ford got a LOT of advetising/PR mileage out of the CHP using them.

Reply to
Spike

87-93 LX alt was 45 or 50 amp and GT 65. My LX is the one with the "25 Years" tag so it was one of a bunch that the dealer ordered loaded. It has all the options that you could get on them that year so it also had the 65 amp alt.
Reply to
WindsorFox

I just got an '89 5.0 LX with the 25-year pony on the side, and it is in the shop now having a bunch of the little niggling things taken care of. Should I look for a new alternator, or just wait til the existing one dies?

Thomas

Reply to
Thomas Cameron

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