Possibility of Saab closure

That part was not a GM design. It has been in the SAAB engines since BGM.

Not always. Sometimes ther eis no warning, or it is so subtle you don't catch it. Certainly no "Check Engine" light or anything. Think about the last electronic appliance (TV, radio, microwave, etc.) that you have the went out. How much "warning" did you get then...?

-Fred W

Yep. Thats where I always get prices. Actually, that's where I always get SAAB parts period.

-Fred W

None. I guess that's why it's a good idea to carry a spare after you hit 75K miles if you plan to keep it; you'll need it anyway.

Simma-dow-now Tigger.

It is a 10 minute job in ANY temperature. 4 screws and one connector. I could do it in 3 minutes. The site that has them for $299 is eEuroparts.com and they are in Connecticutt.

They key is having one in the trunk already as a spare. ;-)

Sure, there are other problem that *could* cause this problem. But this is the one that *does* cause it on almost every SAAB in existence at one time or another, often more than once if you own one long enough.

-Fred W

In an upright position (same as when it's installed, that is.)

Which brings up the question - replace it at 80K "just because", or at 100K, and keep the old not-dead-yet one as the rolling spare, or wait for the original to die and put in the brand new one?

Then again, it's an awful lot of analysis for something that takes

thanks.

This component is too new-fangled for those of us who own "adult" cars (mine will be old enough to drink and vote next year). It seems strange that what sounds like an electrical/electronic component should regularly fail. It would be interesting to know what the failure modes are. HV insulation failure? 10 cent resistor burns out?

I don't know what the failure mode is. I understand it's potted in epoxy. However, anyone who knows me probably won't be surprised when, after mine finally fails, I tear it apart and post pictures and an analysis. If someone wants to send me a dead one, I can start on the process now.

Dave Hinz

I wanted to follow up on this - in my 1991 C900, it also looks like a DI cassette is used (from just the appearance of it). Is the concern about failures similar to the newer cars?

Thanks,

-Dima

?? The storage position is important!?

I've heard it is, and I've heard it's because there is oil in the coils used as the usual high-voltage-insulation purpose.

No, but if it is stored in a position other than its position in the car you have to allow time for the cooling oil inside the ignition coils to flow down to cover the coils. This may be slow in cold weather, but waiting a couple of minutes after mounting it before starting the engine should give the oil plenty of time.

Really? I thought all classic 900s used a conventional ignition. Although they can be retrofitted with DI from what I hear.

John

And that oil is very thick (especially at sub zero trunk temps I image). You want it to be at the business end of the internal coils.

-Fred W

I could be the confused one :-). I'll open my hood and look again today.

-Dima

You may just have a cover that makes it look like the DI module. The difference will be in if there are spark plug wires coming from a distributor, vs. a connector of signal wires, at the non-timing-chain end of the valve cover.

in article slrncudjp9.3lu.rotten_NOSPAM snipped-for-privacy@oragam.example.com, John B at rotten_NOSPAM snipped-for-privacy@ccil.org wrote on 13/01/2005 19:42:

In a C900 of that vintage, the cam cover has a plate over the spark plugs. That looks quite similar to the DI cassette on the B204/B234. Retro fitting DI to the B202/B212 is a fairly simple transplant of the system ... Often it's done along with a B234 head swap, for obvious reasons :)

Anyone interested in fine tuning DI should take a look at this website:

My 1993 (BGM) Saab does not use the DI Cassette . . .