I believe that it probably is, unless you wanted a different word.
I haven't had to reset gap on spark plugs in years. But a spark plug gapping tool (with gage wires) can't be more than 5 bucks at your local NAPA or whatever. Buy the right NGK spark plugs as stated in your manual, _that_ is critical. Every NGK I've ever bought has been properly gapped out of the box.
Bumpy sticks that spin and make the valves go up and down. But that's not important right now.
It's really a piece of cake. Undo those 4 screws (the torx screwdriver is probably also in the car's toolkit), undo the connector (there's a u-shaped slidy think holding it latched together, slide it out the only way it can go), and lift the DI cassette straight up away from the engine. Well, not "straight", at the same angle the engine is. Up & towards you maybe 10 degrees, you'll see what I mean when you get there. It takes a bit of force (just a bit) because you're disconnecting the spark plugs at the same time. Up & out, plugs right there. Make sure there's no crap around the plugs to fall in when you take 'em out, there probably won't be.
If any of the used plugs have tips which look different than the others, post a description here. Should be coffee-with-cream colored maybe dusty looking. Black, or slimy, or flaky, or gone, would all be problems but I'd be surprised by any of that.