Saab 9-3 brakes...help!

Torx and hex are specialty tools now?

That doesn't make any sense...?

Brake cleaner goes on the rotor, not in the calipers; I hope that's not what you meant?

I can't think of any failure mode with those calipers that explains what you describe. This isn't one that you have to turn back in like the '70s and '80s 99/900 calipers, is it? Are there holes in the face of the piston for such a purpose?

Try to find a "beck arnley" dealer. Or go to eeuroparts.com (note two e's at the start of that).

That's what I'm wondering. I don't have that specific car but I don't remember anything of the sort in that new of a Saab. But, if it's got the 2 or 4 holes in the face of the piston, it's likely.

see eeuroparts.com for a guide.

Personal preference and driving style entirely. I just buy the Saab pads and I'm happy with them.

I don't understand why your brake fluid would be hot, nor do I understand why the piston went in before and now will not. Something doesn't make sense just yet.

Dave Hinz wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@individual.net:

Might also want to try English-Swedish Spares, a Saab/Volvo/Jag, etc. "dissambler" near Atlanta, Ga.

Thats why we have the midas touch. Sometimes it cost a lot more to do the job yourself than to bring it to a qualified brake shop. best regards papa

wrote:

a std or metric socket and wrench set(s). Torx bolts are a bad

since they can strip as easily as a screw. Why not use

actually two pieces that both have to be taken off to replace the

call the piece where the piston sits the piston housing

there is another caliper piece that hangs over the

did this from a design perspective because it

it more difficult to work on,

thats what I've read numerous places including here.

a deep well in the center-something like a cup would be if you are

it from the outside.

I agree with you, something doesn't make sense. The only thing I can figure is the piston is c*ck-eyed in the caliper (piston housing).

Thanks for your input!

lot more to do

Umm, yeah. Last time I went to Midas, they charged $320 for lifetime pads and replace one rotor on the front of my Chevy Pickup. Small print later states lifetime pads are the cheapest they sell, and don't include the labor which was something like $32/hr.

So next time I had a problem, I went to Tires Plus, and paid $615 for 4 pads and

There are very few businesses who ethically and responsibly charge for thier work. If I spend $100 on tools for a brake job, and can buy the parts (which were only $120 with tax for four premium pads and 2 front rotors for the Saab) then I'm still saving myself $500 over what the Saab dealer was going to charge. Thats well worth a few hours of frustration.

You think 320.00 for a brake job with life time pads and a new front rotor is a lot with labor,after you and your father in law spent the better part of a day just trying to find the tools needed to do the brake job on his car. I think your father in law would have been more impressed with you if you just said dad we need the midas touch, lets bring it to a pro. best regards papa

I wouldn't let Midas touch any of my cars. "Pro's" don't necesarrily do good work, just fast work. I'll take my time and do it right, or if it's too difficult, seek an independant specialist with good recommendations. Torch weilding chop shops like midas? no thanks...

-Fred W

Well, good news. After figuring out how the brakes work on the 9-3, I was able to quickly install new rotors and pads. Here's the breakdown...

New tools: $78

Savings after my costs, compared with Saab quote: About $400

The car runs and brakes beautifully, no Midas touch required.

Here's my experience:

1. You can save $thousands over the next several (or 75k+ miles) years if you own your Saab that long by doing your own brakes.
2. Need torx tools and sockets, and Hex Rotors are hard to find (even for Midas or other brake 'specialists' since they get theirs from the same place I do with an upcharge)
3. Rear pistons rotate clockwise when retracting. You will need to apply much pressure, and should go in after about 5-10 revolutions. If you don't have a pin tool, use a pair of needlenose pliers to fit in the piston holes to grip the piston.
4. If a piston is "stuck" and can't be pushed in (front or back) use compressed air from an air compressor and release air into the brake line intake of the caliper. The piston will blow out. Much care must be used when doing this: the caliper needs to be removed from the brake line, and do not try and catch the piston, do this against the floor with a towel, since the piston will come out very fast. Then carefully reinsert the piston inside the boot and push back into the caliper.
5. According to a Saab mechanic, there is NO bleeding sequence for the

1. The brakes may rub a bit and sound like they are grinding for the first 50 or so miles when you have new rotors and pads. This is due to the pads 'setting'. They need to be heated up a couple of times and set, as well as the new rotor-which is massive on the 9-3 - needs to wear appropriately for the pads. The grinding sound will go away, and it will drive and brake nicely. Since I was concerned about this at first, I asked a Saab mechanic, and he validated the above, and was correct in my experience. The brakes make no sound after about

1. If you don't have a large (24") brake wrench, get one. at Sears. It will save you alot of time loosening and tightening bolts/sockets.
2. The 9-3 rotors are so big, you may not ever have to replace them. Our car had 55k miles on it, and we were changing the brakes for the first time. We chose to get new rotors on the front, because they had been worn excessively. Also, the LF pads were disproportionately worn to the RF, as well as the rotor.

Next time I do this it will cost me about $50 in front pads and Dot4 and maybe

Hi. I'm just about to replace the front brake pads on my 99 9-3. I'd like to avoid bleeding the whole system. Is there any way around it? (never worked on ABS brakes before.)

Use a bleeder hose. Nothing to worry about, actually. You should bleed the lines as a matter of maintenance, just to put clean brake fluid in the lines - sorta like flushing your cooling system every so often. The 9-3 has independent lines, so there is no sequence required, and is very easy.

Because you are doing just the front pads, you only need to bleed the front lines, if you want.

The 9-3 brake system is gravity fed, so if you leave the line open or hanging down, it will eventually bleed all the fluid.

good luck