1993 SC-2 Power Window Won't Close

Short term - remove the outer door panel (mostly torx fasteners, and easy with any Haynes/Chilton manual guiding you) and check the motor's connector for power. If no power, add a jumper temporarily to get it power and force it to the up position and troubleshoot the electrical system further (I'm assuming you checked all the fuses and relays already).

Long term - fix the electrical, or replace the motor/regulator assembly which is most likely the problem. I may have a motor/regulator assembly in my parts bin that I'd send you for cheap if you don't mind buying used. If you're interested, drop me an e-mail at the address below. There's a lot of other parts for sale on my website as well.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]

Lane,

Thanks for the info and the offer. I may take you up on the motor/regulator. Let me do some exploratory surgery first and see what's going on.

I'm pretty sure it's not a fuse/relay since I can still get the window to go further down, but just can't get it to go up.

don't know if this helps, my 95 SC-2 window open/close problem turned-out to be the window switch, not the motor.

S_H

Just today I replaced the window motor/regulator in my driver door on my '92 SL2. The window would go up about 6 inches and then stop. A few minutes later it would go up another 6 inches and so on. But if I pushed up the window while someone else pushed the button, I could get it to go all the way up.

Once you get the outer door skin off, it is amazing how easy it is to work inside the door compared to a typical car.

Look here:

The new window motor/regulator assembly was $85 at Saturn. It is a "new and improved" design, so the entire assembly must be replaced as one.

Be sure to have this tool in hand before you start.

it, it is nearly impossible to do the job. I had to borrow it. snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

The tool removes the special large-headed screw fasteners which connect the bottom of the window to the regulator assembly. I have been able remove several with a lot of penetrant, a good needlenose pliers, and a visegrips. It wasn't fun, but it is possible without the tool.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]

Sorry but I bent 4 drift punches trying what you said. Vice grips & channel locks both together wouldn't touch it. Mine had lock-tight on the threads and were so tight that even with the socket, I thought I may break the glass. That tool was the only thing that would work on mine, I know I spent an evening stuck because of those nuts.

James

And another thing that will help your window motors last longer... Use spray silicone with a straw and spray the heck out of your window felt tracks. Let the silicone run down the felt track to where it is not exposed. Making that window go up and down easier will take a lot of stress off the electric motor.

When I had the door skin off, I sprayed down the track real good, now it works just like new.

James

You can find a distributor at otctools.com

James

I have had the same problem for about 3 weeks on a 99 SL2. My passenger window would go down fine, but would only go up after about 50 clicks of the switch (and sometimes would only go up an inch or two). I finally had time to tear into it and fix it.

The problem: Not a regulator. It was the contacts in the switch itself.

I pulled the switch assembly out, took the cover off and cleaned all the contacts. Works like a champ now.

Hope this is your problem as well, since it's a free fix.

I have had the same problem for about 3 weeks on a 99 SL2. My passenger window would go down fine, but would only go up after about 50 clicks of the switch (and sometimes would only go up an inch or two). I finally had time to tear into it and fix it.

The problem: Not a regulator. It was the contacts in the switch itself.

I pulled the switch assembly out, took the cover off and cleaned all the contacts. Works like a champ now.

Hope this is your problem as well, since it's a free fix.