Disk Brake Rotor Removal

94 SW1 After 114k, I have decided to replace the Pads and Rotors. Pads worn and the Rotor is missing metal. However, the rotor will not come off the hub. I have tried everything including a sledge hammer. Any ideas? TIA Bryan Cope remove *nojunk* to email
Reply to
BCopeMantu
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Do your rotors have the 3 threaded offset holes, in between the 5 main wheel studs? If so, you put 3 appropriate threaded bolts into these holes and tighten in sequence a little at a time (1/4 turn or so) until the disc comes loose. Give it a few whacks after each tighten sequence. Spray lots of penetrating oil around the stud holes and the centring hole.

Reply to
Mike Martin

Only 4 studs. No other threaded holes. I am going to get a gear puller.

Bryan Cope remove *nojunk* to email

Reply to
BCopeMantu

...before the rest of San Diego county goes up in flames I just took a second look at this thread - I have front rotors rear drums on a 97SL2. On my front rotors I move the caliper off the bracket and the rotor slips ff - the wheel sandwiches the rotor between the wheel and the hub. What am I missing?

Reply to
Jonnie Santos

Had the same problem, years of driving in the rust belt took its toll. Tried penetrating oil then big hammer with no luck.

What finally worked was to heat the rotor with a plain old propane torch. Don't heat it too much, you don't want to damage anything else. After it was fairly warm a few taps loosened it up.

After it's off, take the rust off with fine sandpaper and it won't happen again.

Jim

Reply to
Jim, N2VX

Reply to
user

You've probably thought of this already, but make sure that the inboard caliper pistons aren't hanging up before you replace the rotors. I've heard it's not an uncommon problem, and it's one I had with my SC2. Fortunately, Autozone sells loaded rebuilt calipers for about $85.00-- a real good deal.

-D-

"Jim, N2VX" wrote:

Reply to
David

Try holding outward pressure on the rotor while tapping the studs with a hammer. Make sure you put the lugnuts on somewhat flush with the end so you don't damage the stud when you do this. It should take it right off.

Reply to
BANDIT2941

I hope your home is still standing. What you miss in the west is the rust of the midwest and ohio.

Bryan Cope remove *nojunk* to email

Reply to
BCopeMantu

Yes we're still here and should be fine (thanks) - it got within a couple miles of my Mom's house on Sunday and has since passed. My job is closed again today and so are the non-essential city departments. We're supposed to stay off the main freeways too. My Saturn is covered in fine ash.

Interesting web coverage and video at:

Reply to
Jonnie Santos

Reply to
Erik

Um, 18 mm, Sparky!

Reply to
Kirk Kohnen

Well, it is good to know that I was doing everything correctly. I have had no problem getting the calipers and the cradle off. All I am seeing is a roter and 4 studs. These front disks are assembled like the Dodges I have done in the past. And yes it is an 18 mm socket to get the caliper cradle off. However, do you have any advise on the 'tap' with hammer? what size of hammer have you used?

I have tried dead blow and 20 lb sledge with no success. this has been in conjuction with heat from a propane torch, a gear puller, and lots of penatrating oil.

As I said, I cannot get the rotor off the hub. I am presumming, then, that from your experience, the rotor is not bolted to the hub? (Y/N)

Thanks ,>

Bryan Cope remove *nojunk* to email

Reply to
BCopeMantu

Did you try what I said? That is, put lugnuts on the studs and tapping the studs with a hammer?

Reply to
BANDIT2941

My humble appoligies as I lost count of what I have tried: Yes, I tapped on the lugnuts.

I

Bryan Cope remove *nojunk* to email

Reply to
BCopeMantu

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