Near-Overheating Incident

I was stuck in a major (almost 3 hour) traffic tie-up last night, and the temperature gauge of my 1995 SL2 was slowly creeping up while idling. Luckily, I was always able to turn off the engine before getting to the "red" zone. During this ordeal, I noticed that the radiator fan was not coming on, and that as long as I was moving, the temp would move back down. I checked the fuse for this fan, and it is not blown. Anyone know of a way to check the relay without buying a new one?

Thanks for any info.

SLH

Reply to
SLH
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Reply to
SLH

Don't rule out the radiator fan motor. In fact, it's likely the motor.

The motors are wear items - they have brushes in them. But, the brushes aren't replaceable - it's a sealed motor.

In a 95 Saturn, it's probably about time.

The relays tend NOT to fail; the radiator fan motors DO tend to wear out.

Good Luck!

PS - Test the relay by swapping it with one of the other identical relays in the fuse box. But, it's probably your motor...

Reply to
Kirk Kohnen

YOu can test the motor real easy.. Start the car. then tun on the Air conditioning to MAX.. This should kick on the Fan motor.

If the fan motor turn on, then sounds like a Coolant Temp sensor is bad.

Reply to
Joe Biadasz

If you have A/C, turn it on to test the fan. The fan always runs when the AC is on.

Lane [ l a n e @ p a i r . c o m ]

Reply to
Lane

As mentioned before, it's probably the motor. About $50 at NAPA. Also, did you try turning on the A/C? If it runs with the A/C, but not without the A/C, then it may need a temp sensor.

Reply to
Steve Barker

Um, unless the RELAY is shot.

Reply to
Kirk Kohnen

Turning on the AC will help determine if you have a bad coolant temperature sensor. If turning on the AC causes the fan to turn on, then the relay and the fan motor are OK.

If, on the other hand, turning on the AC does not cause the fan to turn on, either the relay or the fan motor is bad. It's likely the fan motor, but you can verify that the relay is working by switching it with another of the identical relays on the fuse panel. If, after changing the relay, it still doesn't work, then it's likely the fan motor.

Good Luck!

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Reply to
Kirk Kohnen

If turning on the A/C causes the fan to come on, it COULD be the CTS, but, at some point, saturn ditched the two sensor (gauge and computer) setup and went to a ONE sensor that feeds both setup. And, if that sensor's bad, then the car's gonna act funny - not just have fan probs. I think it'll puke a trouble code too.

Sensors are an easy $15 replace.

Anyway, if the fan still won't come on without the A/C, and you're REALLY stuck - shut the engine, then unplug the wire to the compressor. That way, the car thinks the A/C's on and turns on the fan, but the compressor isn't on, thus no A/C. I did this once when my car sucked in a bag I couldn't reach without getting really dirty, and in traffic. So, I left the A/C "on", leaving the fan on all the time, though I suspect it would have stayed that way anyway...

Funny about the relay talk - the one time I had a fan problem with the wagon, it WAS the relay. Or, actually, the connector.

Oh yes, don't forget that the fan could get stuck - I had that once too. if it can't turn, it won't run - make sure it spins freely!

And, if it's running but you're not cooling, check that you didn't suck up a bag or something into the radiator. I've noticed at least my SC2 seems to have a real lot of cooldown ability - it drops the needle fast when the fan pops on.

Reply to
Philip Nasadowski

I had this exact problem in my 93 SL1, it was a dirty contact under the fusepanel, and the Saturn tech cleaned it. Worked great after that.

Reply to
Logan Parker

Had a similar incident. After changing the temperature cooling sensor twice I finally got the fan to work. Mechanic told me that the temperature had to reach 3/4 up before the fan started to run. No problem since then..

Reply to
Laurent Doiron

Thanks to all who offered advice! It turned out to be multiple problems, including a dead motor, faulty sensors, and a few other things that were adding to the problem. It was an expen$ive trip to the shop, but it seems to be working fine now....

Thanks again,

SLH

Reply to
SLH

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