Rear end opinions wanted

Pat Unless the rear that you have is a 44, the flanged axles won't fit. If it is a 44, the 3:54 is a good ratio rear and if you are not concerned about TT, I would recommend keeping that rear and updating to the flanged axles. Ron Butts

At least in '55, all V-8 rears were 44s, so I'm assuming that it's a 44. I second the recommend for the 3.54 ratio; I prefer a 3.31 but it doesn't give quite as sparkling acceleration. ISTR that the car we're talking about is a 4-speed as well, so really for regular use I'd definitely stay with 3.73 as the absolute max ratio to remain freeway-friendly.

If it's the original rear (and it probably is; ISTR that 3.54 was the standard ratio for an automatic or straight 3-speed) it will also have the grease fittings for the wheel bearings and a drain plug for the differential, which are nice (and not present on the later rears.) The grease fittings appear somewhat easy to add, but I don't know how you'd drill the big hole for the drain plug without some serious hardware - and the drain plug is almost a necessity if you have a TT; you can't sneak a suction gun past the TT unit, so you have to pull the cover to drain.

nate

R> Pat

Pat,

I don't know about Calvin; but, you got this Greek interested---really quick!!!(vbg) Flathead

Pat, just curious why go from tapered to flanged? I here a number of fellas upsell the flanged axle idea.for many years my father beat the hell out of tapered rears ,ran his 4 spd. Avanti as hard as he could and never lost,and niether did the tapered rear! and I myself never had a problem with tapered rears. the first studebaker my father had was a

51 commander with o.d., the only problem he had(more than once) was breaking rear springs,but not the axles and I guess it was a 23 or 27 rear.

Joe.

They do fail occasionally. I witnessed one failing on a 55 coupe at SB2002 at the dragstrip.

Maybe yours are the best of the lot.

I've heard of them breaking and first heard of it back in the 60's. And all those axles are now at least 40 years old. When they break you are going to lose a rear fender and likely lose control. Thanks but no thanks. That is why I ran an R3 rear end in my first 54 and a 9 inch Ford in this one.

I don't think you will find any that don't have to be modified. Easiest would be the flanged axle conversion. I did once see a 55 Ford wagon that had a 44 rear end with flanged axles. I think it was about the same width , maybe a half inch wider. The spring perches measured the same distance as a Stude, so I think it would be a bolt in, just a very hard to find bolt in. Any 44 could be upgraded to a TT but it is not cheap. The narrowest 9" is about 1" wider than stock. If you want big tires you will have to get wheels that are offset more than would look good. One advantage, if you decide to narrow it is that you can narrow it a lot and move the wheels closer to the center between the fender and the springs. That would allow a much wider tire and wheel.

I've heard of them breaking and, in fact, experienced it on my '62 Daytona convertible less than 24 hours after I bought it. Hard to imagine a 259/flight o matic having enough power to break one with torque so, I believe, it was simply a case of fatigue thru 122k miles of normal use.

I was lucky in that I had JUST come off the interstate after doing a

40 mile stretch at 80 MPH and was pulling away from a stoplight. There was absolutely NO damage to the body of the car and the only injury was a $40 hit to my billfold for the flatbed ride home.

I ordered an NOS axle assembly from SASCO, picked it up the next day, and installed it. On anything I am going to run hard, I'll either swap it for a later Stude or Avanti II Axle assembly with flanged axles or, someday when my inventory runs out, swap to Phil Harris' flanged axle conversion kit.

Lee DeLaBarre Daytona62

Well Pat,

Because you are looking for opinions I will put one forth.

The axle chouse depends on what you have in mind. If you want to keep it as close to original, maybe just Studebaker type parts, then tapered is what it came with. I have had one brake and it was just luck that no serious damage or personal injury happened. Studebaker used flanged axles in some of the later cars so you could use one from a 65 for example and still be Studebaker. Putting in new flanged axles with a good rebuild will give you so close to Studebaker parts, that no one except at a show would care, but with more strength and ease of brake service , which can be a major pain if you are not traveling with the proper drum puller. Personally with the above choices I would go with the new flanged axles if money was not in short supply. Down the road it will save time and possibly money. Although I have had only one axle mishap it is the only one from any car I have owned and I have had at about ten different manufacturers represented and about 20 cars. So the odds are against us.

Now for another view. I am looking into using a Ford 8.8 from an Explorer. I have found some interesting facts and figures and just need to verify what it fact and what is fiction. The width could be the same or with in half an inch. 1/4" each side is useable with out having to cut any thing up. Spring perches are being said to be the same. All this will be confirmed over the next few trips to the local pick-a-part. These rear axles are just as good if not better than the 44 and the parts are new. Disc brake rears as well as drum can be found with close ratios to match Studebaker's. Don't hold your breath for the answers. I have allot on my plate over the next two months so it will happen when it happens.

The all out way was to put a modified Ford 9" under it and if you are worried about braking axles then go for a full floating set up. This link is for a 9" full floater 4x4 set up but has a lot of details to support the safest way to go.

This can also be done for a 44 if you want to keep the Studebaker housing for any reason. It's all a mater of what you want your Studebaker to be and what your budget will allow.

Wiz.

A 8" from a 70s ford maverick is about 1-1/2" narrower than the stock rear in a C/K. Its the same basic design as the 9" with flanged axles and removeable gear carrier. Ford used them in some mustangs and torinos I think as well. If you are running wide rims and need clearace, may be a option. Spring perches need to be moved to fit. On the other hand, I think the parts availability is limited compared to a

9". I once checked into that and the traction lok (limited slip) carrier for it seems to be big $$$ if you can find one.

Jeff in ND

I broke a tapered axel on my 64 Daytona Convertible 25 ft from my driveway at less than 10 mph. No body damage but damaged the tail pipe and I had to replace the rear brake shoes and a few minor parts. I sure wouldn't want it to happen at road speed.

My father had this happen to his J20 Jeep while pulling a 5th wheel trailer. The rear squatted and then he saw the wheel roll past his truck.

Geno

64 R2 Avanti

64 Daytona Convertible