1998 manual Subaru Legacy GT stalls at stops and in neutral, and then runs terribly

Hi,

Here's the story. I bought a 98 Legacy with only 40K miles, but with the "check engine light" on, from a dealer in New Jersey, got on the turnpike, and it stalled at the first tollbooth. It started fine, but the engine sounded like a lawnmower, was shaking terribly, and had a fraction of the power it was supposed to. I brought it back to the dealer, he started it up, and it was fine. We later figured out that if the car is doing this, you can turn it off, let it sit 5-10 seconds, and when you start it up, it's fine.

Sometimes, the car will start running badly, shaking etc, without stalling first. Always, though, it's when the RPMs have gone from high to low pretty quickly, like when stopping, or shifting into neutral between gears. However, it doesn't always happen, so it's difficult to replicate.

He had me bring it to a mechanic, who replaced injectors and the Idle Air Control motor. When I picked it up, the CEL was off, I thought everything was okay. First time I get on a highway, though, and slow down due to traffic, it stalls, I restart, it sounds terrible and has no power, and the CEL is back on.

The dealer had me bring it to another mechanic, who took out the EGR valve and told me to drive it for a week or two. If the car doesn't run badly, the EGR was the problem. It ran very good after this for several days, but occasionally stalled. Then, one day it stalled and shook and had no power. It did this a few times, but not near the frequency it had been when I first bought it.

Then, I took it on a 100-mile trip, and it started stalling almost at every stop sign, sometimes running badly afterwards, sometimes not.

As it is now, I'm taking it back to the second mechanic, who will put in a new EGR and then do the "next thing".

What could possibly be wrong with this otherwise wonderful car?

Reply to
tragle
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Find a mechanic that knows how to pull the trouble codes from the computer and interpret them.

Reply to
Jim Stewart

Both mechanics have checked, it's the interpreting that's hard.

The first one saw a code for the idle air control motor and replaced it. That didn't work. The second one supposedly has better diagnostic equipment, but there's still the problem of reproducing the problem to see what codes are generated.

Reply to
tragle

Idle air control motor? Like the mechanism that opens the air intake?

I'd suspect the O2 sensor might be bad in that case. See if they can test that or replace if it's cheap enough.

Reply to
Funkadyleik Spynwhanker

Sounds more like an intermittent lose of signal to/from a sensor/control unit. You might want to take apart all the connectors at the engine and to the ECM, inspect, clean, tighten and smear in some dielectric grease. The grease keeps water out of the connections and just as importantly, acts as a shock absorber to keep the pins tight. Look closely at all the pins. They should all be clean and consistantly shiney.

Pete

Reply to
cselby

Not a bad suggestion, particularly in an older car with a little corrosion perhaps. Ground connections are also important.

As a side note, I just had a MAF behave similarly (intermittent) on my daughter's '95 Nissan.

Is there any corelation with moisture/rain. etc.? Could be a bad coil pack or plug wires.

Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

No -- it's usually been dry when I've driven it.

I'm going to see if I can get the codes at AutoZone.

Reply to
tragle

Here are the codes:

P0400 - EGR Flow Malfunction The EGR valve is gone so that makes sense.

P1101 - Fuel Air Metering This is the MAF, I think.

P1507 - Idle Speed Control

Reply to
tragle

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