300E Runs until warm then STOPS

I am wondering if anybody has any experience with a 300E Running good until it warms up --- then it shut down. DIES. It won't start until it cools down. Have replaced the water pump, the idle control valve, the plugs, the plug wires, the distributor cap, almost everything. Any help would be highly thanked.

Reply to
Cor Stil
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If it simply stops running as if the ignition key were turned to OFF then I'd suspect and electrical heat caused failure. No spark. First thought in that direction is a bad ignition coil.

But if the motor sputters to a stop with gasps and surges, a fuel starvation problem is most likely the cause. However, fuel starvation is usually not heat related but usually tied to engine load - like climbing a hill etc.

Reply to
-->> T.G. Lambach

I recall someone mention a switch by the throttle cable going bad... could someone please elaborate?

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Tiger

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Reply to
Cor Stil

Reply to
Cor Stil

T.G. It shuts down like It got shot, I mean it does not die it groans and acts like its getting to much fuel when you step on the gas, it, oh how do you say it, sounds like a dying bull, it sort of like back fires thru and just sounds awful. When you let off the gas it goes back to idle, but when warm, it varies idle speed. It got hot and shut down, that's why it has a new water pump, it went bad, ever since then I've had the problem with shutting down....any ideas besides what you've already written....

"-->> T.G. Lambach

Reply to
Cor Stil

I had a 1979 Cad Seville.. with the same problem.. had to replaced the computer...

Reply to
AndThenSome

Maybe the fuel system is not delivering fuel enough - 4.5./5.5 bar - when warm. Try to fix it replacing the fuel pressure acumulator. My

300E has the same problem to restart when warm, my guess is this part is faulty. HTH,

Renato

Reply to
mobi

Reply to
Cor Stil

My 89 300E has a similar problem although it manifests itself when sitting over two weeks. I have ordered a fuel filter and will take any other advise. Coil wire looked frayed as well, new wires coming.

Is there a 'warm transmitter' that may be shot. I know there is a cold start transmitter. Oddly, I filled the radiator overflow and the problem went away. (it was low)?

Reply to
Steve

I had this exact problem. I described it to my daughter who works in sales at MB. She took it to the guys in the shop and they diagnosed it immediately. It is the top-dead-center sensor (alternately crankshaft position sensor) that senses the position of the crankshaft and sends positional information to the computer to tell it when to spark. The problem started occasionally, and got worse over time, especially as the summer came. Evenutally, it was happening every seven or eight minutes.

It can be replaced very easily. If the eng> > > >

Reply to
John Doherty

Further to this one: The unit fails to give a signal when hot, thermal runaway or similar effect. When the heat from the block reaches the unit and it hits the fail temperature, you're dead. When it cools down again, it start first time. On a mild day, this can take up to 35 - 40 minutes. In Winter I guess it would be faster, especially on the East Coast.

If yours does this, this is the problem, 99% sure.

Reply to
John Doherty

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