brake changing tip for 01 Outback wagon

Just did the rear pads on my 01 Outback at 65k miles. They're cute little pads back there in contrast the beefier ones I changed out in the front around 58k. This car must be heavy because my original front pads on my Mazda 626 lasted till 90k, and I didn't have to change the rears until 120k!

The job was very easy, 5 lugnuts, a caliper bolt, compress the piston, clean up the shims, clean some dust out the hardware, pop on the shims on the new pads, slap em in, close the caliper, replace the bolt, remount the tire and wee! Didn't bother bleeding as the 60k service I had Subaru do included that that, so everything in there was fresh, and they were kind enough to leave enough space in the reservoir that I didn't evn have any siphoning to do when compressing the little pistons on the rear.

The tip I wanna share though is about the aftermarket pads I got at Autozone. These things all looked the same shape, size, outline, but there WERE inner and outer pads. I found (later of course) that you could install two outer pads on one wheel just fine. But then you were screwed on the other wheel because the inner pads have two raised bumps that prevent the caliper from completely closing if installed on the outer side. So, I got to change one wheel twice. :-)

So, look for those bumps on the top of the new pads and stick those babies on the inner side.

Best Regards,

-- Todd H.

2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA
Reply to
Todd H.
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One additional thing I always do Todd is to sand the rotors with a sanding disk in an electric drill to remove any rust and glaze from the rotor. This helps the new pads seat and helps eliminate any chance of squealing. ed

Reply to
Edward Hayes

I'll keep it in mind for next time...nifty. What grit do you use?

-- Todd H.

2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA
Reply to
Todd H.

Any grit that will give me a swirl pattern. Probably a 60 grit or there about. Most any rough enough to scuff the surface good.

Reply to
Edward Hayes

Shame on you, ALWAYS loosen the bleed screw when you compress the piston. This prevents the nastiest most overheated fluid from being forced upstream where it remains. Also it prevents damage to the anti-lock system in some vehicles...never bothered to check into Subaru's because I would never consider doing this. Also don't forget grease in all the proper places. TG

Reply to
TG

Hee hee--I knew i'd take heat for this, but let's say it was a calculated risk.

When you loosed the bleed screw though, aren't there then things you have to do to ensure you don't get air in the system?

As in grease fittings with a grease gun?

Best Regards,

-- Todd H.

2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA
Reply to
Todd H.

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