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Challenging job tomorrow

Customer had a car towed in from 50 miles away, no start. It had a communication code, and with the help of tech assist, I found a 30 amp slow blow fuse broken; (not blown, the element had broke) it powered up part of the computer. New fuse the car started up. Tried to clear the code (at the initial time the only 2 codes were for communication errors) but the cel stayed on. Had a code for Mass Air flow sensor now. So I took a peek. No where in since the car arrived had I looked at it, for the problem was greater than a maf would give; but the MAF is unplugged. So I tried to pull up the wire and it wouldn't move. crawled under the car, the plug is melted to the exhaust manifold. the plug is junk

Now we look to see who was at fault. If it was our shop then we would repair it at our cost. I specifically did the 15k service on this car (oil change, rotate and inspect,) but I don't unplug that plug even when changing the air filter, and if I had left it unplugged it would have set a cel on engine start

Look at the Jiffy lube decal on the window. Hmmm he has had his oil changed sense his last trip to our shop, and Jiffy lube likes to sell air filters. The customer will be having a discussion with jiffy Lube when his car is repaired.

If it were my car I would soder a new on onto it, but the car only has 17000 miles, the owner opted to replace the bulkhead wiring harness- think about pulling the dash and replacing the harness that goes through the bulkhead. This will be a first for me.

Reply to
S.Hansen
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DANG! Did you try to talk him into splicing the old harness to a new connector? Um, not that you won't be thorough, but the idea of R&R the dash seems like a recipe for squeaks and rattles.

Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Do this anyway!

Reply to
Hachiroku

Being as I know a fair amount about cars and a great deal more about electronics, if a tech came to me and said, "We can attach a new end to the MAF harness and have you out in 5 minutes", or, "We need to replace the entire harness, which will take 2 days for the part, 2 days to remove

1/3 of the car, 1 day to install the new harness, and 2 more days to reinstall the 1/3 of the car we removed", I'd take the 5 minutes!

Besides, S Hansen didn't say how bad the connector was. If all it takes is

2 contacts and a crimping tool...
Reply to
Hachiroku

Same here.. If part of the harness is damaged, I'd cut it back to "good" area, stagger the splice points, solder and heatshrink them, and cover the run with split loom all the way back to the main harness. I'd also try to put some kind of wire management clip on it to keep it away from that manifold.

I've replaced harnesses before, and it's a job I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy. That was a few years back on old American iron; with easy dash and engine access. Doing it on a recent Soob would be a nightmare even for a shop with shop manuals.

Reply to
nobody >

Unfortunately, I don't have the say so on certain kinds of repairs- As Subaru doesn't sell the just the end piece/part long term there could be warranty issues. To see this car apart is almost scary, and I'm doing the work. the owner is going after Jiffy lube. If this was a warranty issue, the book says 1.4 hours to do. I have 6 hours in it and am only 1/2 done. Also, I would never crimp a wire on a car. Soder and heat shrink.

Reply to
S.Hansen

The original was probably crimped, wasn't it? I use crimps and heatshrink. Crimping gives a better mechanical connections, and then you can solder it for a good electrical connection.

1.4 hours, eh? Phew!
Reply to
Hachiroku

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