Freekin' dealer

So I take my '00 OBW to the dealer for the 90K mile service. This is where I purchased the car and have always had good luck with their service dept.,
plus its close to work, about 40 miles from my house. Since the service included an oil change, and I just did mine with synthetic about 1000 miles earlier I said "don't do an oil change 'cuz I just did it not too long ago". OK, the guy notes not to do it. Even says on the service slip not to do it and I was credited that amount off the 90K service, Cool so far I get the car back to my house but on the way home at stop lights I could smell burning oil, kinda like after you do an oil change....hmmmmm I get under the car and see a subaru oil filter ...........mine was bosch goddamitt! I check the oil level and the freeking thing is wayyyyyy past the top notch. I check the next morning. Lower but still way past the notch, let alone the F-mark. I've since drained the right amount out of the pan so at least the oil is the right level
So now the big question. How does the H4 2.5L respond to switching back and forth to synth? 'cuz I know damn well they didn't give me an oil change with synthetic. This engine wasn't put on synth until 80K and ran 10K with it and I want to keep it with it.
-- John
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I stopped using my Dealer long ago, overpriced. Find someone who specialize in Japanese cars, less $, better results.

I don't see how one change would matter, change in 2k miles. Personally I changed to semi synthetic in my '05 Forester. It should be a reasonable compromise.
--

mred


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Heh... unless you have service done that requires a fair OEM parts in which case it can cost you more, depending on the upcharge policy of their parts source.
-- Todd H. 2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA
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On 11 Mar 2007 01:32:33 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@toddh.net (Todd H.) wrote:

.
I guess this could be true for some drive train parts, etc. I haven't needed any major work on mine. I was rear ended in my '03 Forester (totaled), had 60k miles. My '05 is just maintenance, which I do. I do have a '97 Honda accord with +150K miles. My mechanic always uses rebuild part, way less than the dealer prices. The accord just keeps going.
--

mred


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wrote:

Honda's are known for being damn near "Bulletproof". They have layed a few rotten eggs over the years, The "Passport" was a re-badged Isuzu Pooper (cheap piece of shit) and the "CRV" is known for it's flimsy/wimpy suspension and axles.Look under one sometime and you will see parts that are stamped metal that's scary thin.The drive axles are less than 1/2 inch in diameter. Other than that the only other real "problem" with Honda is that they are TERRIBLY boring automobiles, but they DO get you home and don't blow headgaskets, nor require "magic" coolant system conditioners (ridiculous).
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Anyone in their own mind would dump the stock springs in the crv to lower it to the same level where civic wagon should've been. As for the wimpy axles: if you need machismo in your rides go buy a Jeep.

C&D reviews suggest otherwise. I'd take the word of the professionals over your opinion any day. Civic Si boring???? If you mean that anything that's can't be drifted is boring you should consider other varieties of fun.
Heck, never thought I'd defend honda :-)
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FYI The passport was a rebaged RODEO!!! The Acura SLX was an Isuzu Trooper- one of the highest quality longest lasting suvs with real off road ability (92-up). Yes most hondas are cheaply made and their auto trans usually have issues. I dont like Hondas and wouldnt buy one. I would have bought another Trooper if they kept making them. Isuzu trucks rule
On Mar 12, 3:28 am, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Who's right mind? Yours doesn't drive the Snake River Road in northeast Oregon. Lowering a CRV there isn't wise at all. My brother-in-law needs the clearance for snowdrifts and the small boulders that fall onto the road quite regularily.
Not everyone has "boy racer" aspirations. Some of us willingly go for vehicles that ride higher and accept the reduced handling that goes with it. For me, it's far easier on an aching back to get into a higher vehicle.
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I would not mind the extra clearance if the springs on my outback sport had any stiffness to them. But the only way I could control the maddening body contortions of that car was to put the sti springs in the back. sway bar helped for a while but then it became too obvious the springs are way too soft. I don't have much choice, do I? And if I wanted an even stiffer ride I have to go lower yet with the pink jdm sti springs. Fortunately for me black US market springs are plenty stiff to my taste. I wish I did not have to give up 20mm of clearance but it will have to do. It's very pacifying. I haven't even been bitching about the tranny lately. Maybe it's wishful thinking but the car finally feels together. Heck, maybe the altered geometry took some slop out of the drivetrain and the tranny really does shift better. What do I know.
Back to the original subject: how often do people have to change the shim on the oil drain bolt? Every oil change or just when you notice leaks?
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The accord just keeps

I sold my '90 EX w/170K to a guy at work, who ran it to 250K, still mechanically fine, the only blemish is the roof paint has bleached.
If they only sold an AWD accord of that style and the same gear ratios
-- John
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I had a combo of a 90k and 105k service done at an independent. The parts cost was a heart stopper. The brake parts I chose to use because lesser stuff never seemed to work worth a crap were essentially OEM cost. Timing belt they had to get from the dealer, same with the timing belt tensioner, hoses and drive belts I think were fairly reasonable...can't recall what all else but $2200 later I had routine service for those intervals plus new pads and rotors all around and a new battery.
I'd have financially been better off at the dealer, so I used to believe folks that said enlightenment can be found at your independent mechanic, but my personal experience trying that route says "not necessarily."
Best Regards, -- Todd H. 2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA
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On 12 Mar 2007 02:14:05 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@toddh.net (Todd H.) wrote:

Just checked my 30K service record from last summer on my '02 Forester. $246 labor and $160 parts. My dealer 'tests' fluids and if they do not indicate any problem they are not flushed/changed, at least at this 30K service. They said they try to keep the customer's bill as low as possible by doing the factory authorized tests rather flushing perfectly good fluids. Sounded reasonable to me.
They also do 'all' my oil changes. Will probably continue letting them do all servicing even when all warranties expire since they are fair and knowledgeable and it is no longer 'fun' at 70+ years of age, but I had 'only' dealers also maintain my 90' Legacy sedan and '95 Legacy wagon.
BoB
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I don't think there is much harm. You need to change at 94k now, naturally. Or have the dealer do it for you (and overfill again). If you're not in the very laid back mood you could sue the dealer. That overfilling business being so common is getting tiresome it's about time someone would do something.
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heheheeh
That was an Eric Cartman moment "God dammit!!"
The worst place I ever had an oil change was.... wal-mart. I know - what was I thinking? But that was years ago. I do it myself now. Any difference between a Bosch and Subaru oil filter?
Stoneman
www.stonemanautoreview.com
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