oil change on 2010 Outback

Doing an oil change yourself should be easy right?

Well, I just came in after more than 2hrs out in the cold damp garage.

The problem: the oil filter on this thing is surrounded by exhaust pipes, and was really tight to get off.

2010 PZEV 2.5

I won't do another oil change myself until I find a tool to help me. I'll call Subaru tomorrow and see if they sell one.

I had an old oil filter wrench in the garage that proved useless for two reasons: It was too big, and there was no room to maneuver it. I tried jamming pieces of rubber between the filter and the wrench but to no avail. I almost punched a hole in the bottom to drain the old oil out, and maybe hammer it loose. Then I got scared that I would not be able to drive the car to some shop to help me out. One last search in my toolbox yielded a pipe clamp that was *just* big enough to get around the filter. I squeezed that sucker on and used the handle of my hammer to lever against the head of the pipe-clamp, finally breaking free the filter.

Even installing the new one by hand, I could not quite get 3/4 turn on the new one. 0.7 turns will hopefully be good enough!

Don't bother trying this without a tool unless you are Mr Universe, and if you are Mr Universe, you probably can't fit your hand between the exhaust pipes anyway!

Reply to
Chicobiker
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Been through this kind of thing with other cars. Subaru had done 30k service on my Forester and not only put on a smaller filter but Mr Universe had put it on. I discovered this next time I tried to change oil. I called dealer, complained to service manager and arranged for them to put on my filter for free.

Reply to
Frank

And I thought Honda oil changes are impossible to do by do-it-yourselfers.

Reply to
Cameo

Have you ever tried an end cap filter wrench? Examples here:

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I don't remember if I got mine at an auto parts store or Wallyworld.

Reply to
Dean Hoffman

Don't know about Honda but I believe Toyota will keep pestering you with a change the oil reminder if you do it yourself. Friend went to dealer to find out how to reset the code on his.

Now, I read, even DYI battery changes are not recommended since you not only lose your radio settings but car computer must reset and if you did it before a car inspection, it would be rejected.

Reply to
Frank

OK, back to basics. Was this the first oil change? IF so than you did good and that wont be a problem from on. The factory filters are TIGHT. So tight that I use

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forfirst time oil changes.After that i use
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Having just the pliers will now solve all your problems.

Understand; I do many more oil changes a day than you.... ;)

Reply to
StephenH

If my battery dies and I can get to the clamps and such I change it myself. Why overpay for a crappy OEM battery that is designed to last only for 3 years or so. I've changed many batteries and other than the radio presents and clock there were no problems. For those afraid of everything hook a trickle charger up before disconnecting the battery and you wont lose anything. Computer should be fine too. Unless you changed the battery in the insp.center lot any codes would be triggered as you drove to inspection!

Reply to
Big Jim

This was the second oil change. Dealer did the first. I'm going to pick up a filter wrench like the one you posted. I just can't see where there is space for pliers!

I also noticed a difference between the Subaru filter and the Quaker State I bought. Subaru filter felt much more hefty and there was something extra inside it. They're not any more expensive so I'm gonna pick up a few from the dealer for next time.

Reply to
Chicobiker

The 'cap' style tools have no clearance issues. However, there are several sizes and, sometimes, switching filter manufacturers means buying a new cap.

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THIS looks good!
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Reply to
1 Lucky Texan

Ironically this is somethign that I have often bragged about concerning my 95 or 98 legacies. Not only is it easy to access, but I don't even have to jack the car up since kneelign in front of the car and reachign under the front bumper gains me access to the oil filter. Then the drain plug is just laying in front of the car and reaching under it with a ratchet. Easy as can be. It was a determining factor when my wife and I were deciding which car to give away to her cousin when we bought a newer car. Because of the ease of regular maintenance versus the other car's(a 96 Saturn SL2) we kept it. Fortunately we chose wisely. That car threw a rod about 15k miles later while the subaru went another 30-35k before I got 800 bucks for it.

I often wonder how much GM tainted subaru. Design for Long term reliability and Design for maintenance both seem to have deteriorated in the last 15 years.

Reply to
weelliott

Yes, someone told me that if inspection doesn't show at least 75 miles on computer, you automatically fail here in DE.

Also my 2003 Forester battery is still going strong. Had one battery disconnect a couple of years ago when body shop replaced a broken tail light assembly. Other than radio and clock reset, no problem.

Reply to
Frank

What do you mean by the GM - Subaru connection? What do they have to do with each other?

Reply to
Cameo

I have a BIG collection of filter wrenches, end cap and pliers. Now that i do Subaru's, the pliers is all I ever use; and I can get them up there even on turbos; but the end cap type like I showed is great. two sizes available; get the small one. it slips perfectly over a oem filter. Hey look how hard this was:

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DO not get the 3 jawed one, it is a good tool, but not optimal for a Subaru. An observation I have made, any oil filter I have seen leaking has never been OEM. only aftermarkets; (and a small amount at that)

Reply to
StephenH

Nothing anymore. At one time, GM owned a fraction of Subaru - then they sold it to Toyota. There were rumors that, when GM was part owner, some soob cars got GM alternators.

And I think some Foresters got a bowtie badge in India???

Reply to
1 Lucky Texan

Hm, I was not aware of that history. So now Subaru is partly owned by Toyota?

Reply to
Cameo

snipped-for-privacy@n30g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...

The Saab 92X was also part of the GM/Subaru alliance. Now. I think Toy has gone from 8% to 16% ownership and is co-designing a coupe I guess. (these projects come and go, I guess it's still on?)

Reply to
1 Lucky Texan

Reply to
Big Jim

On Nov 17, 2:12=A0pm, Big Jim wrote:

It isn't really mileage. It's the 'monitor incomplete' issue. If you clear the CEL/ECU immediately before the emissions test, you will fail. (at least here in Texas you will.) It takes a certain number and requires certain conditions of 'drive cycles'. It might vary wife manufacturer. basically, if you ever clear your CEL/ECU (with a scan tool or with a dead battery) wait a few days before going for an inspection.

I found this description on a Ford site;

******OBDII Monitor Exercised Drive Cycle Procedure

Purpose of Drive Cycle Procedure Drive Cycle Preparation 1. Install scan tool. Turn key on with the engine off. Cycle key off, then on. Select appropriate Vehicle & Engine qualifier. Clear all DTC's/ Perform a PCM Reset. Bypasses engine soak timer. Resets OBDII Monitor status.

  1. Begin to monitor the following PIDs: ECT, EVAPDC, FLI (if available) and TP MODE. Start vehicle WITHOUT returning to Key Off.
  2. Idle vehicle for 15 seconds. Drive at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) until ECT is at least 76.7=B0C (170=B0 F). Prep for Monitor Entry 4. Is IAT within 4.4 to 37.8=B0C (40 to 100=B0 F)? If Not, complete the following steps but, note that step 14 will be required to "bypass " the Evap monitor and clear the P1000. Engine warm-up and provide IAT input to the PCM. HEGO 5. Cruise at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) for up to 4 minutes. Executes the HEGO monitor. EVAP 6. Cruise at 72 to 104 Km/h (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid sharp turns and hills) Note, to initiate the monitor: TP MODE should =3DPT, EVAPDC must be >75%, and FLI must be between 15 and 85% Executes the EVAP Monitor (If IAT is within 4.4 to 37.8=B0 (40 to 100=B0F)) Catalyst 7. Drive in stop and go traffic conditions. Include five different constant cruise speeds, ranging from 40 to 72 Km/h (25 to 45 MPH) over a 10 minute period. Executes the Catalyst Monitor. EGR 8. From a stop, accelerate to 72 Km/h (45 MPH) at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Repeat 3 times. Executes the EGR Monitor. SEC AIR/CCM (Engine) 9. Bring the vehicle to a stop. Idle with transmission in drive (neutral for M/T) for 2 minutes. Executes the ISC portion of the CCM. CCM (Trans) 10. For M/T, accelerate from 0 to 80 Km/h (o to 50 MPH), continue to step 11. For A/T, from a stop and in overdrive, moderately accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop vehicle and repeat without overdrive to 64 Km/h (40 MPH) cruising for at least 30 seconds. While at 64 Km/h (40 MPH) , activate overdrive and accelerate to 80 Km/h (50 MPH) and cruise for at least
15 seconds. Stop for at least 20 seconds and repeat step 10 five times. Executes the transmission portion of the CCM. Misfire & Fuel Monitors 11. From a stop, accelerate to 104 Km/h (65 MPH). Decelerate at closed throttle until 64 Km/h (40 MPH) (no brakes). Repeat this 3 times. Allows learning for the misfire monitor. Readiness Check 12. Access the ON-Board System Readiness (OBDII monitor status) function on the scan tool. Determine whether all non- continuous monitors have completed. If not, go to step 13. Determines if any monitor has not completed. Pending Code Check and Evap Monitor "Bypass" Check 13. With the scan tool, check for pending codes. Conduct normal repair procedures for any pending code concern. Otherwise, rerun any incomplete monitor. Note: if the EVAP monitor is not complete AND IAT was out of the 4.4 to 37.8=B0 C (40 to 100=B0 F) temperature range in step #4, or the altitude is over 2438 m. (8000 ft.), the Evap "bypass" procedure must be followed. Proceed to step 14. Determines if a pending code is preventing the clearing of P1000. Evap Monitor "Bypass" 14. Park vehicle for a minimum of 8 hours. Repeat steps 2 through 12. DO NOT REPEAT STEP 1. Allow the "bypass" counter to increment to two. ******
Reply to
1 Lucky Texan

Have you tried one of the "wrenches" that are a big polycarbonate socket that fits over the end of the filter, with a center square hole for a 3/8" drive ratchet? That way, perhaps with a socket extension, you don't need to get in beside the filter at all, just straight out in the direction the filter points away from the engine. Frequently these are what they use at a professional shop, rather than the wrenches that clamp down around the outside. I have several sizes, probably got them at a place like Walmart although they have much cut down on tools they carry. Bob Wilson

Reply to
Robert L. Wilson

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