Synthetic Oil ??

Do they recommend blends of dino/synthetic? That's what my dealer (Auburn WA Subaru) uses.

Dunno, they just said that 'Subaru doesn't recommend synthetic oil' and I said fine. I guess I could check the Owner's Manual, but the oil change was the least of my concerns - looking at $700 to replace the rear wiring harness to fix corroded wires, so I wasn't too concerned about what oil they were using! ;-)

Dan D '99 Impreza RS2.5 (son's) Central NJ USA

Hi, Carl

Memory fails on the exact years they had that problem... I'm kinda thinking we started hearing of it around 2001-02 models and it went until maybe around 2004? (I also don't remember if it affected just Phase I engines, or carried over into the earliest Phase II models?) Please don't quote me, though! Hopefully someone here's got a better memory than I!

Rick

How do we do that? It would be real nice to know!

Fire up your favorite browser then Go to google.com, more, groups, then advanced search.

or just click here >

I think I'd check with Subaru. I was just reading about the Chrysler Hemi and their 4-6-8 multi displacement motor and you Must use 5W-20 in for it to work right. It said to Watch it being put in, and dealers will buy 10W-30 or 40, partly out of Ignorance, or because it is Cheaper. Maybe they feel the same profit with synthetic, the price would look excessive.

I have a 07' 2.5i SOHC. Sube says synthetic is fine for it. I bought some Quaker State "Q" synthetic on sale, and will probably use it when I change it. I feel synthetics are good for much longer than Sube says to change it, but being under warranty, I'll change when they say. not that I want Any mechanic working on my cars, since I often have to ReDo what they did, or had to sove a problem for pennies, after they made it a major job to bilk the mfg, but in case I decide to let them try. I might put what drain out into my 86' Chevy that has 75K on it, and see how that goes. The Sube will be getting mostly highway miles on it, and maybe not that many.

I was reading that Sube recomends 5W-30, and said gas mileage is better. If my brain isn't too damaged, I Think multi vis oils go to the higher vis at operating temps, and the difference between 5 & 10W when cold doesn't seem that much. I debated and bought 10W-30. Now would 5W protect the motor better than 10W when cold, flowing faster and better, and save that much gas? That's right, I plan to let the temp gauge start moving before redlineing, and melt some glaciers, so probably doesn't matter. That 5W will be up to 20W by then.))

I usually pour some keroscene in after draining oil, to flush out as much dirt as I can with Dino oil. I guess a little kero won't bother synthetic, but I'd feel better if they made synthetic keroscene.))

VF

I picked up some Quaker State "Q" synthetic. Have you heard anything about it?? Never used synthetic before, so guess I'll be learning. A friend swears by Mobil 1 also, in all his cars.

VF

Try here 1240 messages

Cool, thanx guys!

Gona go with synthetic in the Sube. The more I read the more I feel it has advantages, and sounds like it is good for a Lot longer than Sube oil change intervals, which I always believed. For warranty pourposes, I'll change it in the Sube, and put what I drain into my old Chevy, so the costs won't be any more than if I used new dino in both. No Sludge is one thing that is attractive, along with other benefits. The Chevy gets a lot of short trips, bearly getting hot. Neither car will get driven that much. The Chevy alone, only gets driven about 4Kmi/yr. The Sube may increase the total miles between the 2, since it was bought to take trips with, so mostly road miles on the oil.

VF

Hi,

They do! Google "synthetic kerosene" and a product called Klean Heat Kerosene Substitute ought to come up. There may be others. Dunno if it's available in your area, though.

Rick

Ah, the joys of being left-handed and dyslexic: that should have read "just Phase II engines, or carried over from the latest Phase I models?"

Sorry 'bout that. But in rereading and thinking over this, I'm pretty sure it was a Phase II problem. I still may need to be corrected.

Rick