Anco wiper blades called a CR best buy

whoops, too many hondas. should be:

"honda auto transmissions are not standard planetary gear trains".

no response? what atf do you use? and how often do you change it?

Nothing wrong with injecting some Honda's excitement into Toyota's bordom. ;-)

Here in Edmonton, Canada, Hondas are the preferred vehicles of gang members.

Fords were the prefered cars for Clyde,,, Bonnie and Clyde.Clyde once sent a letter to Henry Ford about how good those Ford cars are. cuhulin

Absolutely, Hondas have good performance, handling and crash rating. Gangsters often care more about what cars they drive than average Joes.

In Texas mostly old folks drive Toyawntas.

So the silicone doesn't make a very good blade?? I've had silicone radiator hoses and they last forever.

Toyota is building a new factory in Blue Springs,Mississippi.(near Tupelo) They will build Toyota Prius cars there.

I don't know about Tripledges but I've actually *worn out* a set of PIAA silicone blades. I love 'em. Every other blade that I've tried gets hard and won't flip over long before the edge wears out.

nate

but that's my point!!! it costs almost nothing extra to have a custom bearing unit specific to the task!!! why should lubricant be any different? [rhetorical] it's a batch process. it's a piece of cake to do from a production viewpoint, and can have substantial mechanical benefits as shown by the way honda atf performs differently to non-honda atf.

maybe, maybe not. maybe they want lock-in.

go ahead. but you'll be lucky to find anything specific since most producers go out of their way to keep the public in the dark about this stuff. there's more to oil than just viscosity index.

There is plenty of more specific information available then viscosity index, isuch as SG, viscosity at s 100 deg C, Brookfield Viscosity and Phosphorous % by weight including the ASTM test methods used.

Does this tell the whole story, no, not quite, but it is good start for comparison purposes.

but you seem to have an opinion! how can you have an opinion if you're not familiar with the facts?

and btw, the 01 accord has full electronic transmission control, including engine down-power through ignition retardation on shifting. so yes, you might well expect a smoother shift than you'd get with the older transmissions. but because electronics compensate, doesn't mean that the transmission is operating optimally as it would with the factory spec atf.

found those specs yet?

I have trouble with my 89 legend, using Dexron2, the FSM says Dexron2. Should I try Honda fluid?

what are the symptoms?

Over-revs first when accelerating at anything other than moderate throttle, then jumps into third, jumps back to second momentarily then continuues in third and to fourth.

honda atf will help, but you're better off making sure the kickdown cable is adjusted correctly [if it has one], that the engine is tuned right [if it's hunting in anticipation of a climb in rpm's that never come, it can fluff about like you describe - trust me on that one] and last but not least, making sure the fluid level is correct. in my old civics, the atf is measured 30-60 seconds after shutdown, from full temperature.

of course, you could also have a slipping clutch, but that gets real bad real quick, and you can isolate it by holding the transmission select in the suspect gear for diagnosis.

fyi, my crx sometimes does what you describe on cold days. it used to do it in warmer weather too, but after i undertook the above, and changed the fluid once, it only does it on the first shift of the day up a grade. after that, no problems.

Castrol (use the oil as well). Changes as per the manual.

don't bother with my data - google this group and see how many times this subject arises, how many times people complain of harsh shifting, and how many times the cure is reversion to honda atf.

i guess you're invested in that position now! but if you've only done drain and fill once, you're still about 70% honda atf.

surprise.

i'm not changing the subject. and drain-and-fill is honda factory procedure. if you do that, you'll only change 30-odd percent of the fluid each time. hence you may not have "contaminated" the fluid sufficiently to have an adverse effect.

it's not electronic assist, it's electronic control. different things. the actuators are still hydraulic.

at only 80k miles, you shouldn't be changing the fluid anyway!

someone is "invested" in their position is they stick to it, regardless of contrary fact. you are indeed invested.

me too. but i wasn't making assertions that i could find the data like you were!