Helicoil Sav A Thread Problem?

Jan 10, 2006 31 Replies

My God, this was supposed to be so easy!



After a plug blew out on me (VW Golf GTI), I did a lot of research and got hold of a Helicoil - threaded coil type insert kit. The parts of the job that I'd been led to believe would be difficult were a synch. I left the head in place and, using grease on the tap, caught almost all the aluminium swarf from the tapping operation. The few bits that got into the cylinder were easily spotted with a strong torch and extracted using a wooden splint with a dab of grease on the end (just like fishing). However, the little spring - like inserts refused all my efforts to go in properly - I followed the instructions to the letter, but the insert tool kept siezeing while the springs uncoiled and one by one got ruined. I was left with the idea that the insert tool was faulty (it has a slight burr at the end) - can't think of any other explanation for the "easy part" of the operation to fail 6 times!



OK, so others on the web swear by the solid steel inserts - I got hold of these. The tap from the new kit was needed because the solid inserts (although made by Helicoil under the name Sav-a-Thread), are a different external diameter than the spring types. Once re tapped, re cleaned the swarf out, I was again ready for the "easy bit". No such luck, the insert just got tighter and tighter on the way down the hole (I had tapped clean through so, no it didn't get stuck from lack of threads). I used an old spark plug as an insert tool (as manufacturers recommend), but it just wouldn't take the insert down flush with the top of the hole. Maybe stupidly, I got frustrated at this point and tried just putting lots more turning force on the sparkplug - it seemed to work, but when I removed the sparkplug I noticed that the knurled top of the insert (top 3 or 4 mm) wasn't inside the hole but had been squashed flat by the sparkplug! It looks just like a permanently fixed sparkplug washer. I didn't need to use the special tool to hammer the knurled part into place!



Question: is this thing gonna hold? It certainly took a whole load of force to get it in there and it didn't budge when the sparkplug was removed. Could gases escape around the edges of the insert? I used high temp thread locker - but not the recommended RTV silicone type as it was locally unavailable.



Sorry for the long post - any suggestions / feedback most welcome.



Rob


"OK, so others on the web swear by the solid steel inserts - I got hold of these. The tap from the new kit was needed because the solid inserts (although made by Helicoil under the name Sav-a-Thread), are a different external diameter than the spring types. Once re tapped, re cleaned the swarf out, I was again ready for the "easy bit". No such luck, the insert just got tighter and tighter on the way down the hole"

Rob,

I know this is probably a stupid long-shot, but you did have the coiled end of the helicoil facing INTO the hole right? If you try to insert them backwards they will tighten up and unwind almost immediately.

Chris

I think you solved his riddle there, Chris. This was his first time using these things I bet.

I can think of another explanation. Maybe it's because you're a complete plonker with vanishingly little mechanical aptitude. The bent end of the helicoil insert with the notch cut part way through it so it can be broken off after installation goes at the bottom. Sounds like you were trying to get the inserts in with that bit at the top which means the inserts are trying to expand as you wind not contract and that'll jam them solid after a couple of turns every single time. Not only that but it also means there's a sharp leading edge to the helicoil as you try to install it which is constantly digging in to the aluminium.

To fail with those six times without realising the mistake and then bugger up another fairly foolproof system means maybe you'd be better off paying other people to do your car maintenance from now on.

-- Dave Baker

Sorry to disappoint you, but you´re WRONG! The tang of the spring type has to go on at the bottom - I would imagine it would be near impossible to put them in upside down as you suggest. And how about the solid insert type failing are you maybe suggesting I tried to thread them in anticlockwise or something?

Maybe you shouldn´t judge other people by your own standards.

Rob

Sorry Chris, no. Also doesn´t explain the failure of the solid type.

Rob

Yes, first time, but no, riddle not solved. Any better constructive suggestions?

Rob

My daily driver is a somewhat old BMW 535i with a few hundred thousand miles on it, and for the last ten years or so I have been using the Goodyear Aquatreads. They handle decently well, they do a very good job in the rain. They are noisy as hell and can't handle grooved pavement worth a damn, but they aren't all that expensive and I have been happy with them.

Goodyear has now discontinued the things and replaced them with the newer Assurance tires. The 80,000 "expected lifetime" on these is a little alarming and makes me worry about how hard they are.

Does anyone have a suggestion for a tire similar to the old Aquatreads, with decent highway handling, good performance at high speeds, the ability to handle rain well, and reasonable life? I'm not willing to spend a couple hundred bucks each on serious performance tires for the thing, but it does get a lot of mileage put on at highway speeds and I'd like to be able to keep control of the car when crazy people are changing lanes without looking.

It hasn't snowed here for several years, so performance in snow and ice is basically irrelevant to me. Something quieter than the Aquatread would be nice but not essential. Should I expect to be happy with the Assurance tires? Should I raise the bar somewhat and consider a higher end tire?

Oh yes: last bit of info: I have P195/70R14 rims on the thing due to the limited availability of tires for the original rims.

--scott

I am guessing you had the TRX tires? How were you able to get them to mount 14" tires on that car? I used to have the same car; I couldn't find a shop willing to sell me non-speed-rated tires for a 535i. I did have a set of 14" wheels for it, that I sold with the car, as the TRXs were getting a bit thin at the time, but nobody was willing to replace them.

nate

It originally came with the TRX tires, all of which were bad when I got the car. So, I bought a set of 14" rims (I _think_ off a 325) from a local junkyard for $200, put them on in the driveway, and drove on the free tires that came along with them for a few months.

The local tire chain folks have not looked at me oddly at all, and have had no problem selling me non-speed-rated tires. Since I drive like a little old lady and live in a small town in the middle of nowhere, this may have affected things. The grey hair helps too, even if it's down to my shoulders.

Right now I really need to swap out the thrust arm (upper control arm?) bushings on the thing before I get new tires. I was going to do that yesterday afternoon but I got sidetracked.

--scott

"Scott Dorsey" wrote

Well, tirerack.com turns up many in that size. You might try Michelin Energy MXV4 (which we have used on our '91 525i very successfully). Two additional tires it shows are Michelin Hydroedge and the Goodyear Assurance TripleTred (different than the ComforTred).

FloydR

Well, I was maybe 22 years old at the time... guess they thought I looked like an eeeevil speeeeeeder punk :)

Funny thing is, if they were concerned about me driving on brand new, but S-rated, tires, why didn't the fact that I was driving on near-bald TRX's concern them? much confusion... (ended up buying some rock-hard used TRX's from a slim shady used tire dealer...)

nate

Best tire "for the money", get the Kumho ECSTA KH11. For my 90 E34 535i

5 speed, 104K miles, I got the VR rated ones in 225/60VR15 from Tire Rack for $51 EACH!!!

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Great handling tire that performs well in wet (rainy) weather. Do it!

The newer Assurance tires. They're wonderful.

"bfd" wrote

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You are (almost certainly) WRONG WRONG WRONG. Although that's a different tire than Car & Driver tested, the Kumho came in dead last in their December tire test, being mid-pack in the dry and was by far the worst in the wet.

FloydR

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I've tried several sets of Kumho tires on different vehicles. In my opinion you are getting what you pay for. Yes they are cheap...

"Floyd Rogers" wrote

Man, I wouldn't want that tire for free, much less for the huge amount of money that Michelin charges for it. I guess we either had different experiences or different expectations or both. :) I enjoy somewhat spirited driving (which I'd assume most BMW owners do), and I just hated these tires on an Accord V6 I once had (205/65/15 size, V-rated). They squeeled like slaughtered pigs every time I tried to take a corner faster or even just during straight line acceleration, their wet traction was pretty bad compared to most other tires I've had, and snow handling was just a nightmare. I do realize they're not dedicated winter tires, but they were just aweful. I guess the only thing they have going for them is that they're quiet and last a long time (which can be a curse given the above since you can't wear them out fast enough). Anyway, they may be OK for "grandma" type driving, but even then, you can get similar characteristics from a Dunlop SP A2 for half the price. Bridgestone LSH might be another one to consider.

Agreed on the tirerack.com though - go read some reviews and comparison tests. It'll help you out a bit.

Pete

"Pete" wrote

Ever consider it might be the CAR and not the TIRES as the cause of the squealing? Nothing worse than an over-powered FWD car for that.

FloydR

I have been happy with the performance of Bridgestone's Potenza RE950. They did get noisy after about 20,000 miles, but the handling and performance is great, except supposedly for snow. Not a problem here in Southern California... If you are in the US, I would recommend the Tire Rack. In fact, you can get a good idea of tires and their performance from their web site regardless of where you live:

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Scott Dorsey wrote:

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