Ingnition intermittent

I have completed a few tests (the ones I could do with a multimeter) that all looked good except for one that resulted in an ambiguous reading. A resistance test of the TFI module showed a possible anomalous reading between the gnd and the PIP-in terminals. The specified reading should be greater than 500 ohms. When I first applied the tester leads the needle shot to around 3 ohms but didn't hold there. I could get it to return there by rubbing the leads against the terminals. I then proceeded to test the rest of the prescribed connections, which were within specs. I then retested the first one, now reading normal with the needle not budging. I could, however, get the needle to move to around 3 ohms by slightly squeezing the terminals toward one another. I'm interpreting this as the possible cause of my intermittent spark problem; going out now to replace the module.

Any input?

-- James

uld, however, get

Depending upon the model year those TFI failures are legendary, so much so that a California judge added punitive damages I think to the big settlement. Drivers were losing ignition in intersections. I believe Ford said there was no safety problem. If I got that kind of response from squeezing the terminals I too would be suspect, but make sure you are not touching the terminals or the leads and conducting across your skin. You couldn't conduct 3 ohms anyway without wet salty skin.

Thanks much for the info. I installed a new module and after one day of frequent use all is well.

Yes I thought about the two points you brought up, accidentally touching the leads to the wrong terminal, and touching the leads with my hands. I was very careful about that and also (don't like to get my hands dirty) was wearing rubber gloves.

-- James

P.S. I had a bit of trouble (since found to be common) with the screws attaching the module to the distributor. I even read of one guy who ground down the outside of 7/32 inch socket so it would fit in the too-small, reaccessed, screw holes. I just tapped, gently, on the end of the socket in order to make contact with the hex head of the screws. The replacement part had slightly bigger holes.

my mechanic repaired the AC system (lived in AZ.). I suggested to my mechanic that the additional heat being dumped in the engine compartment from the A/C might be part of the problem. So, he kept the car for several days, letting it idle to get nice and hot but could not get it to show the problem. I did ask him how he was going to replicate the extra heat problem under the hood if he was running it with the hood up (this I had noticed when I stopped in to see how he was coming along with it). So after he returned the car, the engine died next day. Mechanic said "Maybe, I would like to take it somewhere else" so I decided to diagnose the problem myself. It wasn't easy to find. The distributor bearings apparently were going bad (over 100,000 mi.) and causing the distributor to heat up and then the module to heat up. The difference in ambient temp under the hood caused by the AC now working put it over the edge. A visual inspection of the distributor after I removed it, showed a shiny spot on one side of the center part that rotates, indicating that the shaft was wobbling and rubbing against something. And I could feel additional resistance in one spot when rotating it by hand. Rebuilt distributor put in and problem solved.

Thank you. snipped-for-privacy@msbx.net

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