Lowest 2 blower settings not working

Nov 24, 2006 11 Replies

Car: 2000 Pontiac G.A. 3.4



Just noticed the other day that the 2 lowest blower settings don't work. Noting comes out of the vents as though it's off. When I move the fan setting to "3" it suddenly comes out at the regular 3 speed, which is too high for most situations.



What could be wrong? Does the actual switch need to be replaced?


Thanks



MB



The blower motor resister is bad or the harness connector the plugs onto it isn't making a good connection.

Wouldn't that blower dial be like a potentiameter with discrete settings? Couldn't it have gone bad, or is that not the way it works?

Thanks

MB JustSayGo wrote:

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No, the switch is just a switch, they have a pack of resistors that adjust the current to the fan motor. When all you get it high, you have a full 12v to the motor- a direct path, the resistors have burned-- out hence forth no low speeds. The resistors are usually in the heater ducting around the passengers feet or sometimes in the engine bay area passenger side.

I am not sure about your vehicle, but this is a common problem with Dodge. On a Dakota, there is a resistor pack that is mounted in the ductwork on the passenger side under the dash. I replaced mine in just a couple minutes (2 screws). It cost me under $10 for the part from a Dodge dealer.

If I were you, I'd ask a GM dealer or maybe someone with a GM on here can tell you.

Good Luck.

Hank

Blower resister,cost me about $40, mine went a year ago. Its under the dash,near the floor on passenger side. The resistor is a newer design compared to the original.

Thanks for all the replys. I'll check my Haynes manual or my local dealer since I'm off on Mon. If I'm not mistaken this happend when this 6 year old car was about a year old and under warranty. I vaguely remember the dealer telling me that something had "cracked" and needed to be replaced. It was under warranty so I didn't pay any attention.

MB

DanFXR wrote:

"MAB" wrote

Probably looks like this.

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I concur, its the resistor stack, burned out between the #2 and #3 setting. If it was the switch or wiring, it would be more likely that you'd lose a single speed.

On a related note, I'm surprised that auto manufacturers haven't gone to solid state speed control. They'd save a bundle on the control switch and wiring by using lower current components.

Some have. Many Honda's for example, Nissan, Gm also. Any vehicle with continuously variable blower speed. On those the pulse-modulated power transistor burns out frequently!

Don

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Paul, Surprisingly, the transistorized or stepless modules used in many cars with auto A/C are very expensive (to purchase at the parts counter), but that doesn't necessarily mean the part is expensive to produce. Some vehicles have shown pattern failures on these units as frequent as other models have had standard resistor block failures. The problem is there is usually a $100+ difference in cost in the auto style power controllers over the conventional style. But they do benefit as you surmise by eliminating the high current switch in the dash. I don't really have much desire for such splendorous infinite speed control over 4 speeds or Toyota's 7 speed setup they used to have in the Camry.

Toyota MDT in MO

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