Yes, I don't see why not? It isn't like it is going to be burned through or melted by the exhaust manifold. If that were the case, the heater hose itself would be fubar by now.
What is the problem with that? The overflow tank is PLASTIC! it gets hot coolant all the time. It is so cheesy I can almost poke a hole in it with my finger. The overflow bottle pressure cap looks like it came off a 2 liter soda bottle. Do you really think schedule 40 can't handle the engine compartment environment?
Maximum surface temperature of schedule 40 PVC = 140* F
Your top radiator hose where you intend on installing this may see 240*F or higher. Underhood temperatures in the summer, that or higher...
Also, two more hose clamped connections = two more places for leaks to develop.
OK. Won't do it then. You've saved my bacon once again. One day, I am going to send you a BLT sandwich.
Lg
Can I hijack this thread? On my enduro dirt Camaro, I was thinking of a second rad in the backseat area or something for extra cooling - 200 laps on dirt = nose full of mud and slowly rising temps (or quickly rising sometimes) but don't like the idea of 10 foot runs of heater hose... plus it's not that cheap when you need 20+ feet of it.
I was thinking 1.5-2" exhaust pipe... I know it'll eventually rust, but this is a race car that sees fresh water on a regular basis. Hell, it sees new engines on a regular basis because I keep finding new ways to blow them up.
Any thoughts on this? It's not just my car that overheats, I'd say about 50% of the cars are overheating in the average race. 2 hours of full throttle = way more heat than a stock size radiator can dissipate - I have a big rad (and it's new) in there and a flowkooler water pump, but we all run hot by the end...
Ray
I'm sorry, I have changed dozens of pumps and rads on these. It might not be easy, but with the engine running and warm, wrap your hand arouond the heater core hoses and feel the heat. Don't be afraid to lay right across the motor with your chest on the plenum. If one of the hoses are at a completely different temp, you have a circulation problem. If the problem started after the rad was done, the mech did not "burp" the system and the coolant is low. If the rad was changed because of the heat problem, it was mis diagnosed. If you think it is a clogged heater core, back-flush the heater core only.
In the 21 years I have been doing this I have never seen long term air traps. Engines are "burped" and purged of air within a short period of time. At highway speeds and thermostat open all air will purge. The only way there can be air trapped is if there is no activity in the system. So, the only way you can trap air in the system for a week is to not run the engine. Also, all heater cores are lower then the rad cap. If this was not so, every time you opened the cap coolant would come out.
If circulation is not the problem chack the hot/cold door in the mode valve.
Also, the only thing you should poke your hoses with is a cotton ball.
Got news for ya!
The last 2 vehicles I have purchased as well as a few in the past like my Chevy pickups have had replacement heater hoses put on them. These hoses were bulk flexible hoses rather than the factory molded hoses.
This meant that the physical run of the hose wasn't stock and some part of the hose ended up higher than the top of the coolant in the rad. This made for really crappy heat. They would only blow luke warm unless the rpm were really high.
I rerouted most of them to be down, but one on my Cherokee wouldn't go lower. Turns out the coolant level in the closed system's reservoir just needed to be 1" higher to get above the heat hose and now we have good heat.
My CJ's has a loop over the valve cover, so I need to put it nose up to get that air out....
I guess if you work in on new vehicles, you would only have seen newer hoses in the last 21 years.....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >I think paulv is may have the answer
I checked again yesterday morning with the engine cold. The overflow bottle was at the "full cold" mark, but the radiator was down a couple of inches from the filler neck. I added coolant to bring the coolant level up so that it was even with the bottom of the filer neck. Checked again this morning, and the coolant level in the radiator is good.
How long do you have to drive at highway speeds in order to get the air out of the system?
I have been bitten by this before, if you have a coolant pump with high miles it probably is that. take some clear rubber hose install it on your heater core inlet, or splice it between the inlet hose. by doing this you can see if you have flow. if you don't have flow when up to operating condition, heater on, then check and see if you have a heater control valve. sometimes they have plastic valves in them that don't open far enough or even break off. the first guy is right about the fins on the pump erroding away due to electrolesis, you see this more often in foreign cars with plastic fins that break off. hope you find the problem, just keep chippin away and try the easy fix first. I know you would think that you would over heat with broken or eroded fins but thats not the case.
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