This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
My 635 had a shimmy problem. Turned out it was a sticking caliper. The
pads heat up...then the car starts-a-shaking. I could hear the front
pad rubbing just by rolling the car in a parking lot with it turned off.
So...maybe have the calipers checked out.
Wheel balance is a pretty obvious one. Figure you know what that feels
like. The other thing is a possibly bent rim.
<pre wrap="">Jason wrote:
<pre wrap="">My 2001 525i starts to shake once i hit about 65 mph. When I
80 or so the shaking stops. What could be the cause of this and what
should I look for "under the hood"
<pre wrap="">How many miles? If 50K or more, also consider the control arm
Very common failure.
It's most likely to be, in order, a) wheel balance (not the same thing
as alignment, or "tracking") or b) control arm bushes. Both cause a
distinctive "shimmy", usually in the 50-90 range, though of course it
doesn't have to be over the entire range.
BMW 740iL - Stately progress for the mature gentleman
yeah what i ment was looking around the wheels. I can feel it in my pedal
sometimes. I did realize a problem coming from the front left wheel. When i
hit a bump, i get a LOUD rattling noise. So i took a look at it. I found out
where the noise is coming from. Dont get me on the technical stuff i'm not
100% sure but on the back side of the brake pad/calipiar? there's like this
little metal bar that moves back and forth. If i push up on it, it hits the
top of the pad and makes the clicking noise. I compared it with the other
pads and it seems like some type of anti- raddle thing is in place but it's
not on this pad? I see how it works and all but can i just buy this metal
part that goes around it or do i have to replace the entire brake pad?
Start off with the car cold, then drive about 10 miles or so. Pull over
then (carefully) put your hand near the front brake disks one at a time - if
the problem is the caliper, one of the brakes will be clearly a lot hotter
than the other.
This happened about 4 months ago to my wife's 328 with about 95k (miles) on
the clock. The caliper was changed and it's back to driving as it should -
I'd had the wheels/tyres checked out twice before I realised what it was.
I think we need a little more information.
Is the vibration accompanied by the steering wheel shaking?
How many miles on your tires and how often do you rotate them?
Is the suspension stock or has the car been lowered?
My steering wheel used to shake until i got my pads and rotors put on. now i
can just feel the "body" of the car shake.
i have about 20k on my tires. and i just got them rotated about a week ago
along with balance. The suspension is stock...nothing changed with the car.
It's also quite common for the liquid-filled bushings at the ends of the
thrust arms to leak, which causes a shake/shimmy that occurs right around
the 50 to 70 MPH range. More common in I6 models than V8's, I think - the
entire front end is quite different in a 6 than it is in an 8.
The ends of the thrust arms can be seen from under the car. If they've been
leaking, you can see the trail of fluid. If you have (or have access to) a
copy of the ETK and/or TIS, it becomes quite clear where to look.
Well, it's obvious in that you can probably see where dust and dirt have
been attracted to the "damp spot" created by the leak. There is not a lot
of fluid involved here, so you will not see a drastic leak.
As far as incorrect installation of ball joints - depends on who did it and
how competent they are. I'd like to assume that any dealer would be able to
do this with no problem, and 100% correctly, but mistakes do occur. You
might take the car back to whoever did the ball joints, and tell them you've
got a shimmy problem that started after they did the work.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.