Overheating problem

If you are stuck in traffic, then the main difference is that there is little or no air flowing across the radiator EXCEPT for whatever the fan delivers.

Be damn sure your fans are working, be sure that your radiator is not scaled up nor is there material blocking the air flow, and be sure that your shrouds are in place an functioning as designed.

Sometimes idling motors do not pump coolant as well as they should.. Obvious reasons are water pump issues (bad, or not turning as required), defective water pump, dirty system.

Cooling system stymie lots of people. There are but a few reasons why a car overheats. Remove all the innocence, and whatever remains has to be the problem.

This is normal in hot weather. Your engine cooling system is supposed to remove heat from the engine block faster than it builds up. The car's movement at highway speed assures this, because the radiator is moving forward into air much cooler than the engine block. If slow or stopped, you are wholly dependent on the efficiency (speed) of the radiator fan, and in extreme weather this may be insufficient.

The standard cure 30 years ago was to (1) operate the vehicle's internal heater and fans, (2) rev the motor at medium or high speeds even while not moving. Both increase the rate of removal of heat from the engine block.

Thanks for the feedback.

I did turn on the heater full blast and often turned the engine off when not moving and it would reduce the temp for awhile.

I checked and found no coolant loss after the "event."

I wanted to pull off the road for a while, but had no opportunity.

I recall the older cars always had the cooling fan running continually, but I guess in the interest of fuel economy, that design went bye-bye. :-)

There may or may not be a problem with your car. The engine cooling fans are generally setup to operate at speeds below about 40 mph. Above this, the speed of the vehicle is great enough to cool the engine. In the event the engine temp rises to temps usually above 200 deg/f or even more on some, the fan is activated. Usually this temp is fairly high in the temp guage range. If the cooling system is in good condition and holding proper pressure, this is not harmful to the engine. If you have the a/c operating - assuming you have a/c - the engine cooling fans(s) will operate all the time the a/c is operating. This tends to stabilize indicated engine temperatures to the "normal" range on the guage because the engine is sufficiently cooled to keep it below the upper end of the range. The engine may actually run cooler if you have the a/c on in traffic at low speeds. If you do not have the a/c on, you can expect the engine temp to run fairly high before the fan starts. As long as it is in the "normal" range, it should be fine. If it does not cool when the a/c is on or the vehicle speed goes back to cruise speeds, you may need to get it checked out.

Lugnut

if it has an automatic transmission, then put it in neutral when you are stopped at a stop light. If your coolant level is normal and you don't have to continually add coolant, then likely there is no problem.

I'm assuming this behavior is different than what you have experienced with the car in prior years.

With the mileage you have and the parts you have already replaced I would next suspect your radiator is clogged up. You can have it rodded out at a radiator shop but it is often easier to just replace it with a new one.

Steve B.

Thanks for the advice.

I am thinking about installing an actual coolant temp gauge.

I haven't been able to find one that will fit my car. I am assuming it needs a metric adapter.

I have been told that a scan tool can tell the actual temp. when the engine is running.

What do you think.

you could also get a handheld, laser pointer/infrared thermometer if you don't want to permanently mount a gauge. that might even be more useful as you can take the temperature of the engine and cooling system at several spots.

nate

I thought maybe there would be some space on the radiator where I could drill a hole and mount a mechanical type of water temp gauge.

Or see if it's possible to mount another cooling fan or soup up the current motor.

If I could figure some way of generating some electricity from the wasted heat and microwave it to the electric utilities.

I think the "inventor" side of me is overriding the expense and useability aspects of doing that. :-)

Take care, Andy

Sitting still, the hot air off the rad piles up under the hood. Forward speed tends to keep the air moving on through the engine compartment. There's usually baffling and sealing strips that are supposed to prevent hot air in the compartment from finding its way back around to the front of the rad, and if they're busted or missing then you'll recirculate that heated air. Hard to cool the engine that way.

Dan

Traditionally there have been simple to install aftermarket temperature gauges that will fit essentially any car. Check with your FLAPS.

They are not so expensive, and I would recommend you go for quality or forget it.

You got me with FLAPS. What does it mean ?

Andy

Friendly Local Auto Parts Store, or F**king Loser A-holes Peddling S**t, depending on whether it's a NAPA or Pep Boys :)

nate