Update on my 1988 Toronado IPC issue, and yet more Toronado fun! :(

Okay, here's an update to my thread "IPC wiring harness connector for

1988 Toronado?":

I ordered and received a nice shiny can of DeOxit. I happily ripped open my dash and gratuitously hosed down both the connector on the harness and on the back of the IPC. The effect: nothing. I did, however, notice one of the pins being pushed back into the connector, so I played with it until I managed to get it to stay in place, but still no success. So after hours of effort, I gave up... :(

Then, as winter began to fade, and we started getting warmer days, an interesting thing began to happen. I noticed that on days that were > 60F, my IPC came on and worked fine for the most part! On a 70F day, I can pretty much count on it totally! True, it may blink off after a few minutes from when I first start up, but it either comes back in less than a second, or it comes back in a few seconds.

Arrgh! How can this be a thermal issue? I tried and tried to rule out such an anomaly, but it sure seems to be directly connected to the outside temp. What could be responsible for this? Any ideas??

But while I eagerly await everyones' insights as to this issue; I do have a bigger one right now. :(

Yesterday morning my car started up just fine and I went to work. When I came out 8.5 hours later I tried to start it and it wouldn't. The starter spun at normal speed (not like it does when the battery is low), the battery meter registered normal, but it just would not turn over. So after cranking for five seconds or so, I stopped and tried again immediately; this time it sputtered a bit and started. It sounded like it was running a little bit rough for a few seconds, but I took off and had no issues driving it home.

When I arrived home, I had another appointment I needed to be at in 30 minutes, so I figured that I would play it safe and just leave my car running. So I did. I left it running, locked it up, and went inside to change clothes. When I came out, my car had stopped running. The ignition was still on (dash illuminated, etc) but it had died.

I got in and tried to crank it again and again, but unlike my experience at work; this time it would not go. Occasionally it would sputter a bit after I stop cranking, and I even got a very small backfire once in a while, but not often. I checked for fuel at the rail by pushing in the little tire valve-like thing and got sprayed pretty strongly, so I assume my fuel pump is okay. To me, it seems much more like there just is not any spark present. Also, I replaced the in- tank fuel pump a few years back, so it should be in good condition.

I know with my previous Toronado, a 1986, I had quite a few coil pack issues, and have been suprised that I have not had any such problems with this car. I did once have to replace the coil module unit (that they sit on top of) a year or two ago.

Any ideas of what I can test today or tomorrow so I can get this car up and running for work Monday? Does it sound like a coil issue? I thought alternator at first, but was told that my battery would have been low if that was the issue. I'm no expert at cars, so I do really appreciate the guidance I have gotten from everyone in this group in the past. I thank you all in advance for your assistance!

Reply to
lgerhardx
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In a few well thought out and succinct sentences please explain the problem. I tried reading the above, but there's just too much extraneous stuff to make sens of it.

Reply to
John S.

Sorry for my wordiness, here's the boiled-down gist of my current two problems:

1) my car won't start. starter cranks at normal speed, battery appears to have correct amount of charge, fuel at rail. I am assuming that I may have a failed coil pack. Looking for ideas and if I am on the right track.

2) my IPC is possessed. During the winter I had spent most of my driving time without an illuminated dash cluster. On occasion, it would come on for a while, but then go back off after a bit. I tried two other IPC units from a 1986 and 1989 car, and had the same results, so I tried cleaning and working with the connector on the wiring harness considering that it might be the culprit. But now that the weather has been above 60F, it seems to hardly fail at all! On

70F day, I can drive for an hour and not have a single occasion where the dash blinks off. I am wondering what the connection could be between my dash cluster working or not and the temperature outside.

I'm going to test my coil packs today and see if any of them obviously fail. But, I am totally lost on the cause for #2...weird...any thoughts?

Reply to
lgerhardx

One problem fixed!!

The issue with #1 was my ignition control module. I had my wife crank the car while I probed the pre-coil contacts with a test light. The light blinked as anticipated (I thought). But, the tester at AutoZone indicated otherwise and showed it to be non-working. The nice thing was that it was under their limited lifetime warranty, so I got a new one for free! I just drove my car back into the garage a few minutes ago!

But...even as I drove it in...problem #2 was apparent: the instrument cluster was not lit up... :( I wish I knew what the deal was...any thoughts?

Reply to
lgerhardx

It sounds like a bad solder joint or other connection - somewhere. When it gets warm it expands and makes contact. Shrinks when cold and loses contact. Have you tried running a separate ground wire from the panel to a good ground?

Reply to
Paul

No, I haven't. I did play with the power wires, but not the ground ones. I believe I figured out which wires were ground wires (bottom two in both columns of pins) and I could try that sometime. Thanks.

Reply to
lgerhardx

i think the oldsmobiles of that vintage are possessed. I heard of people trading off the car on a day its running good.

Reply to
boxing

LOL...another good suggestion! My wife would love that idea. :)

Reply to
lgerhardx

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