Van won't start on hot days or when engine is hot

I have 1984 Dodge van with 88,000 miles on it. For last few months it has been difficult to impossible to start when either the engine is hot, or the ambient outside temperature is hot. For instance, it starts fine in the cool hours of the night or early morning, but if it is midday 95-degree weather, it will not start most of the time. Likewise, if I drive it somewhere and the engine warms up, when I get ready to leave the store it will not start. Sometimes it takes

30 minutes up to 2-3 hours before it will start. I've left it to cool off then went back to start it later. I'm scared to drive it anywhere, since the probability of being stranded is high. I have had two different mechanics work on it. The first one couldn't find the problem and did a tune-up. The second one replaced an ignition switch and relay, but that didn't solve it. I intend to take it back in. Any suggestions that I should have the guy check? If they don't figure out what it is, I'll only be able to drive the van in the winter. Thanks for info.

GS

Reply to
GarySport
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If the car has an automatic gear check the switch of the gear shift (the one that prevent you from starting the car while in D or R) play with the gear shift back and fort and try to start the car again. You can also bypass the switch in order to check it.

my second thought is the ECU (Car computer). Maybe , before you by a new one, the garage can replace your ECU and see if the problem persist.

Ariel

Reply to
Ariel

I had a Ford years ago that did that. The problem was percolation - the fuel line ran near the exhaust manifold and in HOT weather, the fuel would boil in the fuel line. When the engine was running and the fuel was moving thru the fuel line, no problem. When you turned the engine off, the fuel in the fuel line would boil causing a vapor lock in the fuel delivery system and the car wouldn't start again until things had cooled down. See if your fuel line runs near your exhaust manifold and move the line away from the manifold or insulate it with asbestos paper or similar.

Reply to
Loose Cannon

An ignition module going bad can cause your symptoms.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

GarySport wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

"Loose Cannon" wrote in news:3f4a3548$1 snipped-for-privacy@blaze.ca:

Very good possibility. If the fuel pump is in the rear, check pressure, if the fuel pump is going bad and has weak pressure it may not overcome the vapor lock. There could be a heat shield missing somewhere that is causing it. If it has a front pump (mounted on the engine, you can change over to an electric pump situated near the fuel tank, and alieviate the problem. (pressurized fuel has a higher boiling point).

Reply to
Anthony

Reply to
kc8adu

I sure do. I go way out in the bush with my Jeep and carry a spare module, pickup coil, main coil and know how to jump my ballast 'wire' if needed.

Mike

kc8adu wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Scott wrote:>Is this vehicle fuel injected or not? I'm thinking it's something

No fuel injectors, this is V8 and carbureted. It's a 1984 van, no computer diagnostics unfortunately. I'll be taking it in soon for a state inspection, so if they turn it off it likely won't restart. So then they can see what it does. Thanks.

GS

Reply to
GarySport

What do you mean by "doesn't start?" does it crank interminably with no apparent result, or does it fail to crank at all?

In the first case, I'd check for vapor lock - have you recently changed the fuel filter and possibly moved a fuel line closer to the exhaust manifold or similar?

In the second, which I assume is the case since you refer to changing an ignition switch, something is obviously not working when it gets hot. Two things that immediately come to mind are the starter solenoid and starter motor itself. Of the two I'd consider the starter motor the most likely culprit, but it's easy to test the solenoid with a helper and a multimeter.

Another possibility that springs to mind is that it is cranking but not starting due to a lack of voltage at the distibutor or other electronic failure. Things to check would be the ballast resistor and the bypass terminal on the starter solenoid (and associated wiring of course.) Also a possible heat related failure of something electronic to do with the ignition. If you've got +12V (or thereabouts, will probably actually be lower) at the coil when cranking that rules out ballast, bypass, etc. - check for spark while a helper cranks the engine.

good luck

nate

Reply to
Nathan Nagel

Sorry, I should have explained that further. It cranks fine, just won't fire up and run. Sometimes I 'll try cranking every 5 minutes for half hour without results. Sometimes I have to let it sit an hour or more. I did have a new fuel filter, but after this problem started (as part of the tune-up from the first mechanic). I'll have my current mechanic check out the fuel line and be sure its insulated or out of the way. Thanks for the list of additional things to check.

GS

Reply to
GarySport

| It cranks fine, just won't fire up and run.

During cranking when engine is hot, either [i] touch distributor cap 's ridge to feel an electric jolt, or [ii] remove 1 spark plug, press its

-ve electrode to ground ( away fr plug hole, to avoid igniting petrol vapour ), look for a spark. If u can feel jolt, or see a spark, then ignition is fine. Then your fuel pump ( esp if electric ) may not work. Smell this plug hole for petrol vapour*. If no *, then pump cannot work.

Reply to
Lim PE

Sounds more like an electrical problem to me....I don't know what year or type van you have, as I have only seen this post, but have you tried checking the module in the distributor? good luck...

Fwed

Reply to
fweddybear

You might check for an obstruction or collapse vacuum line at the charcoal cannister. I had an 82 Corona that did virtually the same thing and replacing the cannister did the trick. Took me a year to find the problem. FWIW

Reply to
D F Bonnett

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