Tahoe hot start problem

I've got a 2001 Tahoe , when a drive any distance and the motor warms up to temp if I stop for say 10 or 15 minutes and then go to restart it , it will turn over but it won't start unless I give it 1/2 or full gas, it then starts and will hurt for an rpm to idle at and finally it will settle for 500 and run just fine? Anyone else ever have this probelm and know the fix. So far I've changed the plugs , wires, and the gas and air filters, thanks for any help anyone can give. oh no codes.

Reply to
Pop Tart
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Reply to
Shep

Sounds like vapor lock. (yes it can happen with FI). Try insulating fuel line in engine compartment. It runs rough for a bit until vapor is purged.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Reply to
SnoMan

I had the exact same problem on my 2000. Take off the vacuum hose to the Fuel Pressure Regulator and see if fuel is present. If it is, you might have to replace the FPR. IIRC, the fuel pressure regulator was on the fuel rail, driver side, near the firewall and is a 15 min DIYer job to replace it. Be careful of the screen and little o-rings that come out with it.

HTH,

Derek

Reply to
genius

I'm a shadetree at best so your milage may vary... Is it possible that the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor) is false reading a rich condition thereby cutting fuel trim? I have seen this on more than one vehicle with the exact same issues. If you don't find that there's a fuel pressure problem, you may want to try unplugging the ECT next time it won't turn over. When you force the computer into limp mode, if it starts, it may point to being as bad ECT. I know that ECTs traditionally don't always show codes unless it's a dead short (more than likely is that the sensor gets lazy from a wonky thermositor? Do-hickey. Again, this may not be a needle in a haystack for you but as a reference, it certainly won't hurt. I would definitely force limp if the vehicle isn't starting - at least you could outrule just about any of the 5V feedback sensors pretty quickly.

Thanks and good luck. Andrew.

Reply to
AWN

Is this a dealer part or can I get it at a local parts store, I don't mind taking it to the dealer but I know that they will check the hell out of it for hours and I'll get a 2 or 3 hundred or bill for a $10 part, as it is I'm very surprised at all the things going wrong with a

32k mile truck, now the thing will not go into auto 4 wheel drive, have to push the button 10 or 20 times and some times it really feels like I in full time 4 wheel. Thanks for the help
Reply to
House

Thanks Derek, pulled the hose off and gas came out of the hose, started the truck let it run , went out for a ride , got some lunch started fine, guess I'll replace it someone warned about springs and nuts and bolts coming out so I guess I'll have to be careful

Reply to
House

IIIRC the dealer wanted $80-$100. I got mine from NAPA for about 1/2 that. The problem with the NAPA one was the vacuum line nipple diameter was too small so I have to zip tie the vacuum line on or else it would fall off. My want to get a GM one from one of the online vendors to avoid a vacuum leak.

Be careful as there is a small o-ring that can easily get into the fuel rail.

HTH,

Derek

Reply to
genius

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