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Why no fire?

The responses received have been outstanding. My service manual does NOT show a resistance device between the ignition switch and the primary (positive) side of the coil. The wire travels direct from fuse panel to the tachometer where it is wrapped once around an induction post and then direct to the positive primary connection of the coil. There is a wire from the negative primary post on the coil conducting 12 vdc to one side (input side) of the points.

COULD THIS BE A PROBLEM?

It looks like my next move will be to replace the main coil wire since so many other already operational components have been replaced without noticeable effect.

I will report back -

Thanks for the several very knowledgeable responses.

Reply to
derek sollows
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Some coils run on 12v with no ballast resister.

Reply to
Steve Austin

interchangeable,

This is true... Some start and run at the same current level. The OP really needs a schematic so that he can trace the voltage and current. These systems are not complicated at all, but if you dont know how the wiring goes, it can have you scratching your sensitive body parts and wondering.

Reply to
<HLS

Okay Guys : She's running!!!!!

I took a print of HLS's system review, grabbed 2 son's and an electrical tester and guess what we found?

As before, everything tested fine right to the breaker points - but they were not conductive. I dismantled the points - which were shiney and new and in an absentminded sort of a way (I was watching the other 2 work) I scraped the contact surface with my knife. There was a clear coating on the points!! I don't recall anything like this happening in the old days - but both surfaces were sealed with a very clear material.

Things move forward -- thanks to all who helped with this.

Now to do the other tasks to get her back on the road!

Oh, I'm sure you want to know this, - the sound is not your average Fast And Furious "fart-can" sound. This is a sound from the '60's. headers thru a chrome Harley muffler . a real RAP to it.

Reply to
derek sollows

Like I mentioned before, I once installed some new points in a 1971 Chevrolet van I used to own and the engine wouldn't start up.I cleaned the points with a rag and some rubbing alcohol and then the engine started right up and ran just fine.It seems to me there should be some sort of notice on the packages those new points are packaged in to clean the points before installing.I guess that stuff on those new points are suppose to keep them from rusting, or to keep them bright and shiny looking. cuhulin

Reply to
cuhulin

Im glad you got it firing. Good on ya', and your two sons as well. It is really good that you and your boys work on cars together. Nowadays, most youngsters only know "key" and "gasoline".

Reply to
hls

"derek sollows" wrote

Brand new points? Maybe they were shrink-wrapped onto the packaging card, and when they were pulled out to be installed some of the plastic got left behind.

Reply to
MasterBlaster

And because the system voltage gets pulled down to 10V (or less) during cranking. Leaving the current limiting resistor in circuit would result in a weaker spark than during normal running.

...when the points are open. If the distributor cam is betwen lobes or the points are misadjusted or worn, they'll be closed and then the voltage across the cap will be zero.

Reply to
Paul Hovnanian P.E.

Absolutely correct, Paul. Thanks for mentioning it. It clarified what I had tried to say, and failed somewhat.

Reply to
hls

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