Camry 2000 Vent Mode

Assuming that:

1) the Chilton's manual is correct and you have properly checked continuity and voltage at the switch 2) there is no manual shutoff for the air coming out of the center vents 3) or if there is a manual cutoff for the air coming out of the center vents and you have the cutoff open,

Then, the next thing to check is the actuator for the dampers. The actuator(s) are usually under the dash right next to the center console. Moving the mode switch from feet to face, defog, etc. should make the actuator move, which is attached to the damper.

I have a 98 Camry, and I seem to remember reading something strange about the middle vents in the owner's manual. Maybe they're only on when air is set to "recirculate" or only "fresh/nonrecirculate", or only above or below a certain temperature... I know the symptoms you're talking about, but I obviously don't remember exactly what to do if you really need air from the middle vents. Have you already looked in your owner's manual? Sorry I can't help more, Andy

One more thing: With the vent mode switch disconnected (the dash is completely dismantled), I connected the AC switch and the fan switch, then I started the fan, and the air is still blowing on feet, deforst, and front side vents - no air from the front middle vents.

A damper is not in the correct position.

Ray, Thanks for all the good advice. Do I need to remove the fan assembly (blower) under the dash on the passenger side to get to the damper?

I don't know for sure, but I doubt it. If you look around under the dash while someone changes mode (vent, heat, bi-level, defog, you should see cables moving levers. The levers are attached to the dampers inside the ductwork.

Also, I believe that the center vents have on-off wheels next to the vents. Have you tried to see if they are open?

There are no on-off wheels for the center vents. I plan to take out the fan motor assembly and look for leaves and also try to locate the damper under the dash.

If there were enough leaves behind the fan motor to block air flow to the center vents, it would probably stop flow to all of the vents and smell pretty bad.

Concentrate your efforts on the damper.

Thank you for helping me out Ray. Even after removing the blower motor (fan) and the blower unit case, I am unable to find the damper. I am reluctant to remove the upper dash. I read on an online manual

that the inlet dampercontrol cable controls the vent modes. However, I am unable to findthis cable. The central console, glove box, and lower dash iscompletely disassembled.I noticed that the continuity checks on the vent mode switch do notmeet the results specified in the Chilton's manual. I do not know ifChliton's manual is incorrect or the vent mode switch is gone bad. Inorder to see if Chilton's manual is correct, I am thinking to short thepins using an electrical wire (as per Chilton's manual) on the cableharness that connects to the vent mode switch. Could this cause anydamage to the electrical wiring of the car?I just do not want to buy the vent mode switch unless I am sure if ITIS THE CAUSE.

You can go to

and pay for daily access to the factory repair manuals. I believe the fee is $10 U.S. per day. Shorting the pins on the harness that connects to the vent mode switch should not cause a problem if it is just switching 12 volts. If it is less than 12 volts then the switch is electronic and I wouldn't short it.

As far as finding the dampers that control air flow to various vents, listen under the dash while you move the switch to various positions like defrost, heat, vent, etc. You can hear better if the fan is on the lowest speed setting, and you may be able to hear the dampers moving.

Good luck!

Problem Resolved. It was not the air outlet servo motor, but the plastic piece it rotates. It was stuck. I just tapped it. It is working fine now. To reach it, one needs to remove the lower dash panel on driver side, plus the steering column cover. I was lucky, that I do not have to take it out. So I just removed the lower dash panel on the driver side. It was a great experience. Thank you Ray for helping me out.

You're welcome, although it sound like you did most of the work, diagnosis, and repair yourself. Kudos for taking it on!