Should have done all this yesterday! It was about 6 degrees cooler, but I
had to get my Reg and Inspection from the dealer.
Put new pads on the POS van, just in time for winter! The old pads were
BEYOND toast! Both sides right to the rivets.
Now, I suppose I should have done rotors, too, but I wasn't sure what I'd
find, so I just got the pads.
Surprisingly, as bad as the pads were, the rotor surfaces were not that
bad! They were basically nice and smooth with no real gouging to speak of.
I wanted to do the shoes, too, but it looks more involved than the discs,
so I will do that another day; perhaps I'll find some instructions on line.
It was almost 90 degrees today here in the beautiful Northeast. Good day
for riding with the top off, but the Leaf Peepers will be starting their
yearly run upstream, and the best thing to do is STAY OUT OF THEIR WAY!
I also washed and waxed (Zymol...) the Supra today, inbetween bouts of
removing rusted wheel nuts and letting the brake cleaner dry...
Now, all I need is a windshield...and to get some HEAT in the damn thing...
(I think the water pump is shot...when I keep it out of OD, and leave it
in third at 2500 RPMs there is enough heat to stay warm...)
"Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote in message
I put some of the brake grease on them. I have used molybdenum grease and
anti seize before on the Celica and the Tercel, and then torqued the nuts
and then checked them again. Sure makes removal a LOT easier!
I weigh 260 LBS, and putting the wrench on the lugs and STANDING on the
wrench wouldn't BUDGE them!!
I took an old metal tube from an Electrolux vacuum and used that as a
'breaker' bar! MAN!!!
I also replaced the nuts with standard sized one. The studs are the same
size as the Corolla and the Celica. The studs are really meant for Alloy
wheels, so I am a bit leery, but the chamfer mated with the holes in the
But, now I can use one of the DOZEN lug wrenches I have for Toyotas.
The plastic cover on the trigger for my impact gun broke off so it kind of
hurts to use my impact gun. It was a free sample and still works, but now I
have an excuse for a new one!
The really nice thing about the Snap-On air ratchet is that it is
reaction-less. When the bolt is finally tightened, it won't swing around
and smash your knuckles. The not-so-nice thing about the Snap-On air
ratchet is that it costs about 4 times what a Craftsman one costs, and its
larger size makes it harder to fit into tight spots.
My craftsman air ratchet is good enough for what I use it for.
Keep in mind that pneumatic sanders and die-grinders use a lot more air than
other tools, so a larger compressor with a capacity of at least 90 cubic
feet per minute at 90 PSI is nice.
If you are buying retail and have a choice, an oil lube compressor
is a MUST - they live a lot longer than the oilless.
If you have the room, get a belt-drive "old-style" unit with the
horizontal tank, the slower compressor RPM adds to the longevity. The
direct drive 1725 RPM units are a lot noisier, too.
Depending on who made it, those molded rubber grip sections are
available as replacement parts. Or go get a set of the special
"anti-vibration" gloves with the gel pads in the palms and
second-knuckle areas of the fingers.
For HVLP, you are probably better off going with one of the turbine
units, I have the Campbell Pro and it works fine for my uses.
Unless they've really improved them a lot the HVLP venturi
conversion type guns use way too much shop air to run them. For a
Body Shop with a pair of 15 HP turbine compressors the air consumption
isn't a problem, but for home use it is.
90 CFM? Refer to that Body Shop above, with the twin 15 HP units...
9 CFM at 90 is plenty for anything at home.
I have a "5 HP" (around 3 real HP) 80-gallon two stage at home, and
it will keep up with almost anything except the bead-blast cabinet - I
can't just sit there and wail on a part non-stop or it runs dry. But
as you stop to reposition the piece, and see if it's done yet or not,
the compressor is catching up.
Anything bigger at home becomes a power draw problem - you have to
make sure you have the juice available first. the "5 HP" runs on a
30A 220V clothes dryer circuit no problem.
Well then, go out to the highway overpass and stick out your thumb.
(Or keep your eyes open for a used one, new runs around $4K.
Problem is, it'll cost you more than that to raise the ceiling in your
garage - unless you want cars bumping into the attic joists...)
--<< Bruce >>--
I could have had one for $100! When I was selling used cars we had one in
the shop. It was HUGE, but I would have been able to run ANYTHING off it! I
don't really have room for that thing in my garage. Would have been nice,
though! It was probably made sometime in the 50's or 60's.
I kind of kick myself now...
The oil-less compressors were just coming out when I got my compressor
around 20 years ago, and since they were so new, I stuck to conventional (at
that time) oil-lube compressor. I use my compressor quite a bit for
everything from blowing off the lawnmower to filling tires to air tools.
The only thing I don't like about the compressor is the oily mess when I
drain the tank.
Does the horizontal tank have an advantage over a vertical one or are you
talking just about the belt drive configuration? BTW, how long do those
belts last? I've never done any maintenance or repairs to the compressor
other than draining the tank and refilling the oil.
The brand name on the gun is Fuji, which I've never heard of here in the
U.S. I got it from my dad, who says that company supplies them to
factories. The guns supposedly can be calibrated to apply accurate torque
over many uses. The instructions were in Japanese and I never bothered to
ask someone to translate for me. I like the gun because it is relatively
light and it doesn't over-torque alloy wheels. I don't like the gun because
it is relatively gutless at removing stubborn bolts that someone with one of
those monster impact guns torqued.
Oops! typo! I meant 9 CFM.
My compressor is Craftsman brand, listed as 220V, 5 HP 30 gallon single
stage. I don't know who made it. It is fine for air ratchets and impact
guns but it runs quite a bit when I use a cutoff tool or die grinder.
So put a hose on the tank drain and aim it into a bucket of kitty
litter. The water evaporates and the clay absorbs the oil nicely for
I was talking about the belt between motor and pump. For small
units with the 14 to 20-gallon tanks, they're usually horizontal.
Belt drive lets them use a more efficient 3600 RPM motor and gear it
down with the pulleys for a compressor head that would rather see 600
- 900 RPM for long life and better volumetric efficiency.
Direct drives have to run the compressor head at either 1800 or 3600
RPM in lock-step with the motor, which is not the preferred way to go.
You have to go with smaller pistons and/or shorter crank throws, and
it's harder to dissipate heat.
Time to do a web search for Fuji, finds a parts list, and order one.
You can get a new monster gun for doing lug nuts and crank pulleys if
you want, but there are times when finesse beats brute strength.
Plus, Murphy's Law says the tool breaks 5 minutes after you could
possibly get to the last store in the area that sells them before they
close - and the car HAS to be on the road tomorrow morning...
Yeah, Right, Suuuuuuuure ya did... ;-P
If you have a "5 Sears Horsepower" unit, it is probably a 2-HP or
possibly a 3-HP unit - check the nameplate for the running amps to
divine the true HP ratings. Sears has had to correct their
literature, electric motors are supposed to be rated at Full Load
Current, not the bigger and more impressive sounding Stall Current
rating Sears wanted to use...
According to the NEC, 2-HP is 12A at 230V. 3-HP is 17A at 230V,
5-HP is 28A at 230V for a single-phase motor. Real 5-Horse units need
a magnetic motor starter, the pressure switch contacts can't switch
that much juice reliably.
Look at the motor nameplate and Century Electric Motors refuses to
lie about it, they just mark the HP Rating box as "Special" - any HP
claims made are not theirs.
--<< Bruce >>--
Great idea! I'll have to raise the compressor a bit so that I can get
something larger underneath the compressor, but there should be a lot less
When you explain it that way, it makes a lot of sense.
Hmm, looks like an outfit in NY imports them. Time for more research...
True, plus, one cannot have too many tools!
Well, more of a brain fart than a typo.
Yup, as usual, you were right. The motor is GE, 13.1 A at 220 V. The
compressor is rated at 12 CFM at 90 PSI.
I know that Sears has a tendency to over rate their lawn mower HP, it makes
sense that they would do it for compressors. Oh well, it is good enough for
my needs most of the time.
4CFM at 90 is only a 1-HP unit - plenty for running one framing or
two finish nailers, but not for doing real work with shop tools.
It's enough to run that impact wrench in short bursts. But you have
to pause after breaking loose every lug nut, and then wait quite a
while between running each loose lugnut off the threads. And forget
about a bead blaster.
If you want to buy it once and keep it for a while, look for 2-HP
--<< Bruce >>--
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