2000 Camry vibration

How did you R&R the harmonic balancer? incorect procedure will almost (8 out of 10 times ) result in engine vibration.Also as part of a job such as this all engine mounts should be corectly inspected. dave

Hey Dave

Thanks for the imput. I used a steering wheel type puller with bolts thur the threaded holes in the balancer. After only minimal tightening of the center bolt on the puller the pulley easily slid off in my hands. I put it back after the job and torqued it to the specs on alldata. If you still think this might be the problem though, I will replace it with a new one. I really appreciate your help!!!!!

Keith

Have had this several times, im guessing that the valve timing has been checked, one tooth out will cause a detanation vibration also.When doing this job its common practce to also replace the oil pump shaft seal and block sealing oring as well as the front crankshaft seal. dave.

First on the engine side: check that all timing marks line up, and that you tensioned the belt TO THE LETTER in the Alldata instruction sheet. In my experience your engine should be smoother and quieter than before the timing belt. The belt likes to jump teeth in the 2 turns before locking down the tensioner (also make sure the tensioner can move freely to properly tension the belt). The 5SFE is tensioned at 45deg BTDC as you know and the tensioner properly torqued down to

33lb/ft. (a $15 torque wrench on sale at your local Harbor Freight helps).

On the drive belt tension side: I use Gates timing kit, belts and hoses. Excellent stuff. I also use the Krik-it micro-V belt tension gauge for the PS and ALT belts. Really helps. Your local NAPA store can special order for about $20. Pressing on the belt method really doesn't work and yeah Toyota was too cheap to use automatic tensioners until years later. I use about 25-30% more for the initial tension. Then run the engine for 5 minutes and retension the belts.

Again, your engine should be smoother and quieter after the timing job and the engine should provide slightly more power even after just

50-60K miles. That's why I see no advantage in toyota parts here. Make sure you use the updated shorter tensioner ~$5.

Krik-it gauge:

I typically do the whole "package" below (older prices from rockauto.com): GATES TCK199 (kit of timing belt with two pulleys and instruction) $85 GATES Part # K030295 PS belt $4.32 GATES Part # K050435 Alt/AC $12.12 FEL-PRO TCS45641 Cam seal $4.11 FEL-PRO TCS45920 Crank seal $6.04 BCA Part # 221820 Oil pump seal $2.71 Airtex $38 water pump (from local NAPA store) FEL-PRO VS50304R valve cover gasket set $13.94 BECK/ARNLEY 0396428 $1.87 (PCV grommet) PCV hose $1 per foot at your local NAPA store.

The pulley has a rubber layer. But steering wheel pulley on the two holes should be fine. Now you didn't hold the pulley with a chain- strap wrench did you? I'd check the installation before you replace anything else.

Should be as everyone suggests ok , Il try to be CLEARER here, you can check the balancer by using the timing mark as a reference,its possible that if you have used the balancer mark to time the engine, and the balancer has turned, that your valve timing could be incorrect, as well as the balancer being u/s.

You guys don't know much your help is appreciated!!! I will address this as soon as my wife says she can turn loose of the car for a day or two, and will let you'all know what I find.

Thanks Aga>First on the engine side: check that all timing marks line up, and

Thanks will be interested .................. regards], dave