93 Camry with Global Electrical Failure

Check rest of cable, maybe there is corrosion on the other end of cable. Make sure your positive lead is on the + side of battery. Did you accidently connect the cable reverse on the battery??? There several main fuses to check, located under the hood, look for fuse box, might be also a fusable link. Did you remove the black protective cover on the battery terminals??? Is trans in Park or N setting??? Is voltage to starter correct?? Is voltage to starter solenoid correct when trying to start?? lights work now??? connect back all the leads to terminal?

"jjjsan" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:

Yes: the positive lead is on the positive side & the battery terminals' plastic covers had been removed.Also, the gear shift is set in Park

Nope, no lights work now..

I haven't checked the fuses yet: I didn't want to break any removing them - adding another variable to the problem. What is a fusable link?

There are no lights on in the vehicle at all - no interior lights - no dash lights - nothing!

I appreciate your advice.

Chimes

I have the TOYOTA electrical manual for my 1995 4 Cyl CAMRY.

That shows the Starter fed direct from the battery.To one side of the relay. No fuse in that line. It does draw a very large current on that lead when starter is energised. So there should be volts there at least.

Also the battery supply then goes to a 40amp Fuse thru a relay Marked ST Relay. then down to energise the MAIN Starter relay. That looks like its on the starter. Battery to Starter relay will be BIG cable.

After these 2 take off there is ia 100amp Fuse to supply the rest of the car. You really need to find these points and take a volt reading I doubt somehow that the 100amp had popped. But fuses do tire.( Fail with time )

You could use a jumper lead to prove your EARTH side of battery is connected to chassis and not OPEN CIRCUIT.

Most equipment should work then.

As I say the manual is for 94 On 4 Cyl cars. But maybe this is a fairly standard setup anyway.. Not sure if any of this any good to you. But never know. Johnny UK.

Did you replace the terminal with a temporary one? It's the kind that has a strap for the wires to go under and is tightened down with two capscrews. If so, make sure you got all the wires under the strap and they are clean. If you had a lot of corrosion on the terminal it will creep up the wires and make an insulation on the wire strands. Usually cleaning with a wire brush or battery terminal cleaning brush works. HTH, Dave

Also look at your 'fusible links', they look like wire, in the main fuse block under the hood.

Also, see my response to Barry, next message. Check your grounds. If this is the case, it sounds like the bonding cable (attached to the motor and the body) or another major grounding point.

Ive heard of New batteries being dead, Check for 13.75 v or try it in another car.

Sounds like an internal break in one of the battery cables. Sometimes there is internal corrosion under the cable insulation that can't be addressed by just replacing a cable end. Follow the advice of the previous poster and check continuity in all related wiring. You could try turning the light switch to the "ON" position and wiggling wires and see if you get a flicker. That would locate the problem if it works. FWIW YMMV DFB

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sounds like you may have tried to jump it backwards or put the battery in backwards