A/C compressor

I'd say just leave it alone. But, make sure to run the A/C a few times in the winter, to keep the refrigerant cycling. The refrigerant contains some lubricating oil in it, which will keep everything properly lubricated, and keep your seals happy.

That reminds me... how often should the serpentine belt (not timing belt) be changed? I don't remember seeing that in Haynes either.

Michael

Normally there is little to do about the AC system other than keeping the condenser clean (for better heat transfer), belts properly tensioned, and just use a thermometer to measure the cooling temperature drop at the vent. If you are getting a 40degF drop, then things are working.

For the backyard mechanic, one can check for craks and leaks at the hoses and pipes; look for bearing seizing (glazed belt, grinding noise), no corrosion of electrical connectors. You can also measure the gap in the AC clutch, making sure it's within specs. (never done that before).

Most later model cars have their maintenance interval lengthened. But I still believe the 5 year/60,000 mile schedule worked well for the timing belt/water pump/oil seals/drive belts. If your engine is chain driven, I'd change the belts and hoses at this interval. I use Gates belts and hoses. You pay Toyota more than Gates prices

Idler pulleys pretty much used up all their lube by 60,000 and will start to make noise when you shake it. They'll last longer, but changing them can quiet things down.

Water pump may or may not show signs of leakage at this mileage. Some become harder to turn even with the coolant changed at regular intervals. After all the work taking things apart, just change it.

Cam seals usually show a little seepage and the rubber hardens. Crank seals usually are in better shape. They may look fine but they can leak fumes showing slight seepage only. I found out after the smell disappeared after changing them. It's a good idea when you have everything apart anyway.

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I'm probably going to be sorry I asked, but why are you so opposed to Bando belts? Put one on from Toyota, marked Toyota and Bando for the A/C and alternator belt 25,000 miles ago. Retensioned it once. Holds tension just fine. Has multiple layers of reinforcement judging by the side of the belt. Looks like brand new. Not even the tiniest crack in the ribs on the underside. I've seen cheap belts before, but I do not believe this is one of them. I've been so impressed by the quality of the Toyota parts overall, from the bolts, to the coolant, to the hoses and everything else, that I would not use other brands even if you contend they are OEM suppliers. For me, the Toyota brand name on parts is worth it in preserving the original quality of the car.

Toyota belts are rebranded bando belts, they are not a problem.