I had checked Toyota Camry 99 XLE V6 at local Toyota dealer. Error code was P0446 and he suggested to replace charcoal canister for 485$ and vapor pressure sensor 210$ plus 2 1/2 hour labor cost 252$ in order to fix P0446. This looks to me very expensive procedure. I am wandering if anybody had this type of problem. What if I have some fuel inside of Charcoal canister. Can it evaporate on its own thus (Check Engine Light) will disappear automatically.
I appreciate any comments.
Geneg
If he can sucker you out of 900$ he is happy, that is 485 for a coffee can of charcoal which I dont believe go bad. try a different mechanic, an independant.
I have an `02 Camry-4 and I was told the vacuum switch on the charcoal canister needs to be replaced .
The cost in Kanada ? $650..00 Canadian at my dealers he said that the vacuum switch is integral with the canister and cannot be repaired/
Two other T dealers in my area quoted me a price of around $161.00 Canadian to replace the vacuum switch
Do they know the whole canister needs repalcing? I dont know
I called BASIL TOYOTA IN LOCKPORT ny, usa AND THEY WANTED AROUND $330..00 us FOR THE SAME JOB REPLACING THE CANISTER WITH INTEGRAL VACUUM SWITCH.
I HAVENT HAD MINE DONE AS THE CAR RUNS VERY WELL AND I WILL ONLY NEED IT WHEN ITS TIME FOR AN e--test here in Ontario next year. Pardon the caps; cap lock was stuck.
I dont know who to believe now ????????
Has anyone worked on an `02 Camry canister vacuum switch ? Please advise if you have.
Also could I replace the canister with a type that has a seperate vacuum switch which is serviceable?
TIA
The post 1997 Toyota canisters are kinda junk. There was a TSB out about the canister disintegrating on the inside and sending carbon powder all over and plugging everything. But this usually cause three codes: P0446 (Evaporative Emission control system Vent control circuit), P0441 (Evaporative emission control system incorrect purge flow) and P0440 (Evaporative emission control system).
If you only have one, then you may want to first run a check on the vacuum switches (VSV - vacuum switching valve). Check both the one near the canister and the one near the air filter housing. Haynes manual at local Pep Boys show the fundamentals. Basically applying battery power to activate the VSV. It opens or closes a port is all. It should be able to pass good amount of engine vacuum when one end is connected to the EVAP port on the throttle. If you get only a wimpy
5psi instead of 15-20 you know it's bad.You may also want to carefully pry the metal fingers that hold the VSV port cap and clean the switch. Just don't break them and it may work like new. It's worth a try.
Dealer wants $947? Did they perform any diagnostic work or just rely on the OBD code? Some dealer techs don't really know much about cars. But Christmas time must be near.
As in my response to Gene, you can try prying open the metal fingers that holds the port cap back and clean it. If you need a light coat of oil. Should make it work like new.
You should be able to see the VSV right next to the canister. If the dealer wants to replace the canister, the pressure transducer, and the VSV then you need to know why they felt it's necessary. Some dealer techs will just replace rather than properly diagnose the problem. Hey, it's your money they're taking.
Any OBD-II codes? The post 97 Toyota evap design is kinda junk. But that doesn't mean your canister, vapor transducer and VSV all need replacing.
I'll say test the VSV's, and if bad, CLEAN THEM FIRST.
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