92 Camry problem with starting a hot engine

I have an intermittent problem with my 1992 Toyota Camry (4-cylinder engine). The problem always occurs when I try to start the engine while the engine is hot. Typically I drove the car for more than 20 minutes, stopped the engine, went into a store to buy something (taking about 10-15 minutes), and got back to the car. I was able to start the engine, but immediately it stalled. Then, I could no longer start the engine until I waited long enough (about 20 minutes or more) for the engine to cool down. The Check Engine light was never lit, and I have no engine problems at all while I am driving. The problem only occurs when I try to start a hot engine. I have had this problem since 1.5 years ago, and have replaced fuel pump, thermostat, and spark plugs, but the problem persists. It occurred more often in the summer, but also occurred recently. Sometimes in order to cool the engine faster, I sprayed water mist onto the engine. Is it O.K. to do so? I also tried different brands of gasoline, but it did not help. A Toyota dealer Service Adviser suggested 3 possible causes: 1) thermal valve malfunction, 2) idle speed control (ISC) having some rubber part becoming sticky, and 3) ignition coil broken. Where is the thermal valve, and how can I check it? By the way, I have a Repair Manual published by Toyota. Does anybody have any suggestions? The dealer told me checking each possible cause would cost me several hundred dollars and there would be no guarantee that replacing the part(s) would solve the problem.

Reply to
houston123
Loading thread data ...

check

formatting link
for free online manual for your car. It should tell you how to inspect the various components.

For a decade after your car Toyota continued to struggle with sticking idle air control (IAC) valve. So do a search on the web to find out more about how to clean this. Toyota ended up giving the valve away for those who let them charge $150 or so for labor (don't know if still applies).

A faulty IAC valve doesn't allow enough air to enter the engine at idle and will cause the engine to stall. However, if you manually hold the throttle open and the problem disappears, then you've pretty much narrowed it down that much. (Then you'll be the IAC valve for a while).

Reply to
johngdole

Thermal valve malfunction? Would guess they mean the coolant temperature sensor. Located near the distributor in the water outlet. Haynes repair manual for under $20 will show you how to check it with a digital multimeter. The usual cause for them to malfunction I suspect, is old coolant mixture causing corrosion. Idle speed control? Idle speed is governed by the ECM (computer) which rarely - almost never go bad. There is an idle control valve (IAC - idle air control) which meters air flow past the closed throttle valve at idle governed by the ECM, but in my experience, they tend to show problems with a cold engine. A short spray of TriFlow in the rectangular hole at the bottom of the front of the throttle body is accessible with removal of one bolt clamping the large black air hose. Ignition coil broken? If you have the non California version with the coil inside the distributor I would check this first. Often reported as a problem, and could well be showing up only when hot. Haynes manual gives the resistance specifications to check the primary and secondary windings for resistance. Also, the factory service manual is available online at:

formatting link

Reply to
Daniel

Thanks, Daniel! That's a great link.

Reply to
onehappymadman

Reply to
woodsman

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.