flush transmission

If you have to ask such questions, you'd be better off engaging the services of a TRAINED mechanic.

Do it the right way, drop the pan and replace the filter.

Remove either one. One end or the other will be the return line. Really. :) But it can get messy as people were talking about the pressure being 53psi to nearly 100psi in varying situations. If you don't wipe the metal shavings in the pan they aren't coming out.

Why not just drop the pan, replace the strainer using a Fram ATF kit with a cork rubber gasket (instead of recycled rubber tire gasket), wipe all the metal shavings off the bottom of the pan, place the magents in the proper locations, properly torque the bolts with a Harbor Freight $19.99 1/4"-drive 250in-lb torque wrench?

Remember to drain the differential as well, should be the same 10mm hex plug facing the rear of the car.

wp51dos wrote:

I all ready did that.

I am not an expert - but what would be the point of changing the filter and then flashing the system? the old fluid would run through the new filter and contaminate it. I believe that the correct order is to flush the system and THEN install a fresh clean filter.

I did that all ready. Now I want to flush radiator, torque converter. etc

Old fluid changed while still ok ( red not burnt )

I removed filter. I sprayed cleaner thru it and didn't get junk out. I put in new filter anyway.

There were no metal filings in the pan. Cleaned it and put it back on.

Now I want to flush rest of fluid.